FOOD FOR THOUGHT By
Wanda A. Adams
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| Crowning cupcakes |
After Shung Chong Yuein Ltd. bakery n Chinatown closed (sob!), a reader asked how to make the sesame/peanut candy recipe for which they were famous.
Another reader called with the recipe, and I also consulted cookbooks, including "Practical Recipes in Chinese Cooking," compiled by Te Chih Sheh, the now-defunct Chinese sorority at the University of Hawai'i.
The recipe is very spare: sugar (white or brown), vinegar, water, peanuts, sesame seeds. But beware: It involves a tricky technique making the candy syrup that holds the nut mixture together. You'll need a candy thermometer and patience. Main thing: Keep it bubbling but don't stir, and make sure it reaches the desired temperature.
SESAME PEANUT CANDY
Toast sesame seeds. You can do this in the oven or on the stovetop. To toast in the oven, preheat oven to 325 degrees, spread sesame seeds in a baking pan and place in oven 10-15 minutes, just until they are slightly darkened and fragrant. To toast on the stovetop, place sesame seeds in a wide, dry frying pan over medium heat and heat, swirling occasionally and watching closely to avoid burning; this takes 3-5 minutes. Set sesame seeds aside.
In saucepan, combine sugar, vinegar and water and bring to a boil without stirring. Simmer briskly until the mixture reaches the hard-crack stage (300-310 degrees on a candy thermometer). Drop a little of the molten syrup in cold water and it will form hard, brittle threads that break when bent.
Butter, brush with peanut oil or spray with cooking spray an 11-by-7-by-1 1/2-inch pan. Evenly sprinkle half the sesame seeds into the pan. Spread peanuts over. Pour sugar mixture over and smooth with an old wooden spoon. Top with remaining sesame seeds. Cool slightly and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces while still warm. Your candy may not be as evenly shaped as from the bakery, but it will taste great.
Makes about 30 pieces.
A number of books suggest a different technique for forming the candy: Stir the peanuts into the candy once it's reached the proper temperature. Sprinkle the sesame seeds in a baking dish, then pour in the peanut mixture. Use a bottle coated with peanut oil to flatten out the candy, rolling it over and pressing the candy into shape. Sprinkle remaining sesame seeds. Cut while warm.
Send recipes and queries to Wanda A. Adams, Food Editor, Honolulu Advertiser, P.O. Box 3110, Honolulu, HI 96802. Fax: 525-8055. E-mail: wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.
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