Posted on: Wednesday, July 25, 2007
TASTE
Crowning cupcakes
By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor
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Ballet Hawaii student Lauren Imada, 11, gets a preview (and a taste, of course) of the Hokulani Bake Shop cupcakes that will be enjoyed at Ballet Hawaii's Royal Tea Party before a matinee performance of the organization's "Cinderella" in August.
Photos by ANDREW SHIMABUKU | The Honolulu Advertiser
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'CINDERELLA,' TEA AND CUPCAKES
Ballet Hawaii presents "Cinderella," 7:30 p.m. Aug. 11 and 2 p.m. Aug. 12 with Janessa Touchet in the title role, Joaquin De Luz as The Prince and music by the Honolulu Symphony. Tickets: $25-$75 at Ticket master locations, the Blaisdell Box Office, (877) 750-4400 or at www.ticketmaster.com Royal Tea Party package: Noon Aug. 12, includes tea-and-cupcake party and premium seating for the Sunday matinee of "Cinderella"; $100 per person Information: 521-8600
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When I was in grade school at St. Anthony Elementary in Wailuku, one day Sister Ambrose Irene told us we were going over to the high school home economics room for a "field trip." We all dutifully trooped over, lined up two by two, wondering what was in store for us.
What was in store was cupcakes. I remember them as the most ambrosial cake experience of my childhood: buttery, tender, topped with some kind of pink berry-flavored frosting (and lots of it), and all the more wonderful because they were such a surprise.
Cupcakes still have the capacity to enchant. In her book, "Cupcakes! From the Cake Doctor," (Workman, 2005), Anne Byrn suggests that one reason for the popularity of cupcakes is that the single serving "has 'mine' written all over it."
In recent years, cupcakes have become tres chic, with trendy bakeries devoted to them and many brides deciding to have a cupcake tower instead of a traditional cake.
Next month, a lot of folks will be experiencing all of cupcake's pleasures at Ballet Hawaii's Royal Tea Party catered by Hokulani Bake Shop (which specializes in cupcakes and decorated cookies), at a feast before a matinee performance of Ballet Hawaii's full-length performance of "Cinderella" with the Honolulu Symphony.
News of this event got me thinking about cupcakes, and I decided to visit with Hokulani's owners to get their tips on how to make them at home. Even though they are a commercial bakery, Hokulani is still very small (their workspace at Restaurant Row is about the size of a ship's galley). They started with nothing but a home-size standing mixer, so they know how to work in smaller portions. Also, they don't use a lot of the artificial baking ingredients that many bakeries do. And, finally, I knew their mentor was cake master Abi Langlas. So I knew they'd be able to offer good advice.
The owners are a young couple, Ana and Tushar Dubey, he an Islander whose family is from India, she of Colombian heritage. They met on the Mainland, where he was unhappily pursuing a career in technology but longing to do something in retail. In New York City, he had seen cupcake and cookie shops, and when they moved to Hawai'i and married, they decided that would be their future. "Of course, we had no idea how difficult it was going to be," Tushar Dubey says with a smile.
Not being trained bakers or retailers, they've had some interesting experiences. But here's what they've learned the hard way:
It takes time to get good at anything. If you want to make great cupcakes, you've got to make them often. (Well, darn it.)
Use real ingredients — high-quality butter, fresh local eggs, a good brand of vanilla. Hokulani uses no trans fats, no corn sugars, no hydrogenated oils.
Measure your ingredients carefully. Bakers generally measure dry ingredients by weight, using a scale rather than a cup measure. This helps account for changes in moisture content due to humidity. When using cup measures, use a knife to level off ingredients. Pack brown sugar tightly. Check liquid measurements at eye level.
Have all liquid or soft ingredients — milk, butter, eggs, etc. — at room temperature. If they're cold, they won't incorporate or emulsify properly with the dry ingredients, affecting the texture of the cake.
Cream the batter for the right amount of time, and it's usually a rather short period. The time is specified in good recipes, but, with experience, you can tell by eye, Ana Dubey said. Properly made batter will increase in volume and appear a bit like soft whipped cream.
No matter what the recipe says, add the eggs one at a time and mix briefly in between.
Although some recipes go together differently, the standard technique is to sift the dry ingredients in a separate bowl, cream together the butter and sugar, then add the wet and dry ingredients alternately (preferably in a stand mixer, but you can use a hand-held mixer or beat by hand), working in small amounts and scraping down sides in between.
When placing cupcakes in the muffin pan, scoop precisely (professionals use an ice cream scoop; a 1/3 cup version with a spring-action level is best). If you put too much batter in the cupcake liner, your cupcakes will "have kids," said Tushar Dubey (little leakages on the side).
Put your focus on the task at hand. Turn off the phone when you're mixing so you don't get distracted and forget an ingredient or measure badly. When it's time to bake, set a timer.
Cupcakes should cool completely before frosting. Let cool in the pan for 5 to 10 minutes, then use a flexible spatula or frosting spread to carefully lift the cupcakes out (they're delicate at this point) and transfer to a wire rack to cool fully.
A key ingredient is passion, the Dubeys say; you'll get good at making anything if you care enough about it.
Slightly sour and acid dairy products, such as sour cream or buttermilk, help create tender cupcakes.
Always place the oven rack in the center.
OK, you can use a cake mix, but get creative and jazz it up. Put a spoonful of jam in the middle, or a Hershey's Kiss on top before baking. Use a different liquid, like fruit juice or chocolate milk, or add almond extract and 1/3 cup ground almonds to a plain yellow cake mix.
Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.
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