honoluluadvertiser.com

Sponsored by:

Comment, blog & share photos

Log in | Become a member
The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, April 20, 2007

A stitch in time for student designers

 •  Earthy chic from emerging designers

By Melissa May White
Special to The Advertiser

Leah Evans' "Rags to Riches" dress is about transformation.

Paul Hayashi

spacer spacer

UH FASHION SHOW

A Century of Style: UH fashion students commemorate graduation and the UH centennial

11:30 a.m. Sunday

Moloka'i Ballroom, Sheraton Waikiki Hotel and Resort

$35; includes lunch

Reservations: uhmfashionshow@yahoo.com, 956-2244

spacer spacer

Kelly Mammel's organza and taffeta dress was influenced by Gibson Girl illustrations.

Paul Hayashi

spacer spacer

Campus celebrations are taking on added meaning this year as the University of Hawai'i-Manoa closes out its first century, and the annual fashion show of the UH apparel product design and merchandising program is no exception.

The show features designs by eight juniors and seven graduating seniors. In addition to presenting their senior collections, one "couture" piece and one "wearable art" creation, the seven seniors have been asked to construct a modern garment inspired by a 1907 design, the year of the university's founding.

Collectively, the work of these seven designers is strikingly representative of how fashion has evolved and increasingly transcended cultural and geographical boundaries throughout the last 100 years. Though all but two are Island-born and raised, nary a mu'umu'u or even vaguely Hawaiianesque print are present among the designs to be showcased. Instead, the designers have drawn from a smattering of cultural influences, and from the work of international designers hailing from places such as Italy, Brazil, France, Turkey and Britain.

EMBRACING THE PAST

For her era-straddling dress, Kelly Mammel (originally of Lakewood, Colo.) had little trouble melding her own design proclivities with those of a century ago. Inspired by Gibson Girl illustrations of the early 20th century and the work of modern designers such as Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood, her ensemble strikes a pleasing chord between a darkly romantic modern-day punk princess and a turn-of-the-century tart.

Says Mammel, "I was attracted to the high collars and puffy sleeves of the time, but I wanted to modernize it by making it less constrictive and allowing a little skin to show." Mammel made the sleeves removable and combined futuristic fabrics such as burned-out organza and iridescent taffeta tartan with traditional elements such as pintucks and ruffles.

The thread of fashion history is evident in the designs of Liezel Pagala and Jamie Higa as well. Pagala's haunting, ethereal creations, such as a sheer blue hooded caftan over a richly patterned minidress, are inspired by a love poem from the biblical Book of Solomon, while Higa's prim, tailored collection of separates hearken back to a time when haberdashery, hats and seamed stockings were essential elements of officewear.

BACK TO THE FUTURE

On the futuristic side of the timeline, there's also plenty to celebrate. Leah Evans and Andrea Wu each employ modern and experimental design and construction techniques to decidedly chic effect.

Evans lists avant-garde designers Alexandre Herchcovitch and Hussein Chalayan among her influences, and the experience she gained as a summer intern with designer Christian Joy in New York is apparent in her senior collection, "Rags to Riches."

"Being a student in New York with no money inspired me to take inexpensive and undervalued materials and transform them into valuable objects of desire," Evans commented. Her sleek shift dress (on the cover) exemplifies that concept with its vinyl neckline hand-cut to resemble a ring of diamonds.

Wu's collection, "Deconstruct," consists of intentionally distressed and structured pieces with elements such as hand-frayed seams, contrast stitching and tattered hemlines.

PRETTY, TIMELESS DESIGN

Whatever the century, a persistent truth is that women everywhere love to dress up.

Brandie Cazimero's flirty, flamenco-inspired dresses are devious in their ability to accentuate curves, and Keri Haraga's frothy, sweet creations are just the thing to please ladies who lunch.

With professed influences such as Roberto Cavalli, Emanuel Ungaro, Derek Lam and Zac Posen lighting their creative paths, these two designers are truly keyed in to the meaning of pretty.

• • •

SENIOR PROFILES

A look at the graduating UH fashion designers whose work will be in Sunday s show:

Brandie Cazimero

Age: 21

Collection: "Spanish Lullaby," inspired by the sensuality, curvaceous lines and bold colors of Spanish flamenco attire. The collection features bold, body-conscious cocktail dresses with strategically placed gathers, ruffles and flounces to flatter the figure.

Design influences: Roberto Cavalli, Emanuel Ungaro

Future plan: To pursue further business education and someday be at the helm of a fashion brand or corporation. A Miss Hawaii contestant.

Leah Evans

Age: 22

Collection: "Rags to Riches," transforming inexpensive and undervalued materials into objects of desire. It's urban sportswear with industrial hardware, color dualities and contrasting textures, such as knits paired with vinyl, leather and denim.

Design influences: Marc Jacobs, Alexandre Herchcovitch, Hussein Chalayan, Christian Joy

Future plan: To apprentice with an established designer in New York and eventually return to Hawai'i.

Keri Haraga

Age: 23

Collection: "Sugar Blush," sweet, candy-colored dresses and separates for daytime special occasions. The pastel silk, linen and eyelet dresses and separates are hand-detailed with beading, sequins and ribbon.

Design influences: Derek Lam, Zac Posen

Future plan: To continue working for a local wholesale fabric company and develop a custom dressmaking business on the side.

Jamie Higa

Age: 24

Collection: "Nine.to.Five," modern and sexy separates for the office. It's tailored, feminine business wear in chiffon, wool and linen with a vintage sensibility.

Design influences: A melding of different design elements that Higa finds appealing.

Future plan: Wedding planning in Hawai'i, with a made-to-order bridal business on the side.

Kelly Mammel

Age: 25

Collection: "A Midnight Dream," inspired by surrealism, dark fairy tales and goth/industrial/punk/classical music. These are structured, voluminous cocktail dresses in rich satins and shiny plaids, with corsetry influences and intricate hand stitching.

Design influences: Betsey Johnson, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen

Future plan: To open a boutique in Hawai'i and sell her own line alongside other brands.

Liezel Pagala

Age: 23

Collection: "Rose of Sharon," inspired by a biblical love poem: "I am the rose of Sharon and the lily of the valleys" (Solomon 2:1). The light, flowy dresses and separates evoke springtime. Rose motifs are incorporated into each piece with embroidery, print, ribbonwork, or buttons.

Design influences: The creativity and courage of "Project Runway" contestants.

Future Plan: To be a stay-at-home mom with a custom dressmaking business on the side.

Andrea Wu

Age: 21

Collection: "Deconstruct," inspired by avant-garde European streetwear. The intentionally distressed and structured pieces have hand-frayed seams, contrast stitching and tattered hemlines.

Design influences: Diesel, Custo Barcelona

Future plan: To find a job in fashion and eventually launch her own line.