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The Honolulu Advertiser


By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Posted on: Wednesday, June 17, 2009

TASTE
Savory, sweet takes on mango

 • Mad about mangoes

When a chef gets his hands on a good local mango, you can bet something interesting will happen. Chef Rodney Uyehara of the Beachhouse at the Moana Surfrider hotel developed a fish and mango combination for the upcoming Mangoes @ The Moana festival.

Don't be intimidated. I stood alongside chef Rodney as he made this dish, even helped him put it together (see the video at www.honoluluadvertiser.com or www.shareyourtable.com), and it's really just five simple recipes in one. Much of the work can be done in advance, and it makes a smashing company meal.

PANCETTA-WRAPPED ONAGA WITH NALO HERB SALAD AND MANGO BEURRE BLANC

For the sauce:

  • 2 cups Riesling wine

  • 2 garlic cloves, chopped

  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

  • 2 shallots, chopped

  • 1/2 cup chopped onion

  • 2 tablespoons Ling Ham chili sauce (optional, or use preferred brand)

  • 6 ounces unsalted butter, chilled, in slices

  • 1 ripe mango, peeled, seeded, chopped

    For the vinaigrette:

  • 1 teaspoon yuzu koshu (Japanese tart citrus sauce)

  • Juice of 1 lemon

  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce

  • 2 tablespoons mirin

  • Salt and pepper to taste

  • Lemon juice

    For the salad:

  • 8 ounces pre-cooked, sliced fingerling potatoes

  • 6 ounces tender salad greens

  • Fresh tarragon, dill, marjoram, basil and chives, to taste, minced

    For the salsa:

  • 1 peeled, seeded, diced ripe mango

  • Juice of 1 lime

  • 2 tablespoons diced red onion

  • 2 jalapeno peppers, diced

  • 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

  • Pinch of salt

    For the fish:

  • 4 skinless onaga, mahi or snapper fillets of 7 ounces each

  • Salt and pepper to taste

  • 12 slices pancetta or bacon (very thin)

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil

    Begin the beurre blanc: Place wine, garlic, ginger, shallots, onion and chili sauce in a medium pan and reduce to 1/2 cup (about 10 to 15 minutes). Reduce heat to warm and finish by whisking in butter a little at a time. Add chopped mango to sauce and place in blender. Puree. Place in saute pan over medium-low heat. Just before serving, whisk in butter a little at a time.

    Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine all ingredients for vinaigrette and add the potatoes. Allow them to marinate several minutes.

    Make the salsa: Combine all ingredients. Taste and correct seasonings. Set aside.

    Prepare the fish: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season fish fillets with salt and pepper and wrap with 3 pieces each of pancetta or bacon. In a saute pan, heat olive oil and brown wrapped fish on both sides. Remove to oven for 4 to 5 minutes.

    Add the greens and herbs to the vinaigrette and potatoes and toss gently.

    To plate, place one portion of greens and potato on plate, place seared onaga on greens and drizzle the mango beurre blanc around on the plate, finish with a spoon of salsa on the onaga.

    Serves 4.

    Per serving (not including salt to taste): 1,150 calories, 79 g fat, 34 g saturated fat, 200 mg cholesterol, 1,000 mg sodium, 39 g carbohydrate, 5 g fiber, 21 g sugar, 53 g protein

    Mangoes appear often in my three cookbooks: "The Island Plate, 150 Years of Recipe and Food Lore from The Honolulu Advertiser" (Island Heritage, 2005), "Entertaining Island Style" (Island Heritage, 2006) and "The Island Plate II," (Island Heritage, 2007). Here are some recipes I especially like.

    From "The Island Plate," mango upside-down cake, which I have come to prefer to pineapple upside-down cake, in part because you never know what design you're going to get. Unlike pineapple rings, which are wedged in place, the fingers of mango tend to "hula" during baking and create different designs. I'll be demonstrating this recipe at the Moana mango festival on July 11.

    The gorgeous cake is an amalgam of two recipes: one from food and gardening writer Kathy Oshiro published in The Advertiser in 2000 and another from late gardener extraordinaire May Moir, published in 1986. For my money, this recipe offers the most drama for the easiest preparation of any from-scratch cake.

    MANGO UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

  • Butter-flavored cooking spray

  • 2 cups mangoes, peeled and sliced

  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice

  • 2 tablespoons butter

  • 1/2 cup brown sugar

  • Handful maraschino cherries or Craisins (dried sugared cranberries)

  • 1 1/2 cups cake flour, whisked to remove any lumps

  • 2 teaspoons baking powder

  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1/2 cup butter, softened

  • 1 cup sugar

  • 2 eggs

  • 1/2 cup milk

  • 1/4 cup mango puree (made from fresh mangoes) or juice

    Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees. Spray a 9-inch round cake pan with butter-flavored cooking spray. In a medium bowl, toss mango slices with lemon juice. Set aside. In a small saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons butter and stir in 1/2 cup packed brown sugar. Allow this caramel to come to a boil and pour into pan, tilting and rotating to cover the pan's bottom evenly.

    Arrange remaining mango slices on top of caramel as desired. Decorate with cherries or Craisins.

    In a large bowl, sift together cake flour, baking powder and salt; set aside. Add mango puree to milk; set aside.

    In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, cream butter, beat in sugar, add eggs and beat on medium until color lightens and mixture is fluffy. Alternately add flour mixture and milk and mango mixture, beating well between additions. Carefully turn batter into cake pan, pouring and spreading so as to cover fruit and caramel without disturbing them, and without allowing juices to leak up around sides of batter.

    Bake at 350 degrees for 40 to 45 minutes (the cake will be an almost chocolate brown). Cake should shrink from sides of pan and spring back in center when you touch gently on the center.

    Pineapple variation: Use five or six pineapple rings instead of mangoes. Eliminate lemon juice. Substitute pineapple juice for mango puree.

    Serves 8-10.

    Per serving: 350 calories, 13 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol, 250 mg sodium, 57 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, 42 g sugar, 3 g protein