In the world of wine-speak, the only words used more frequently than "currants" and "cassis" are "Old World" and "New World." Wine aficionados are referring to the apparently dramatic difference in styles between the wines of California, New Zealand and Australia (New World) and those from most of Europe (Old World). The generalization is New World wines are obscenely fruity while Old World wines are depressingly earthy. The dichotomy has become so severe that one feels required to choose a style and stick with it.

Republican or Democrat. Coke or Pepsi. Shoes or slippahs.

Make your choice: Are you an Old World or New World wine drinker?

I assert that there is a viable third option, one that grabs the best qualities of the New World and mixes hints of the Old. We shall title them the wines of the "Middle World," and these wines can change your whole perspective on what is best in wine. For those individuals raised on the ripe, fruit-forward flavors of Napa Valley, it can be far too difficult to make the immediate leap to French wines (and vice versa). For this reason, Middle World wines provide an exciting service in introducing new flavors in subtle ways. These Middle World wines are from the countries of Spain, Portugal, South Africa and even a small spot in the United States.

Spanish wines represent the epicenter of what is cool, modern and hip in the wine community. They also provide an ideal first example of Middle World excellence. The frequent warm weather in the best growing areas of Spain ripens the grapes enough to provide the bright, fresh fruit aromas common in the New World. Yet the dynamic soil composition and not-so-subtle French viticultural influence provide the requisite earthiness of the Old. The result is an enticing replacement of Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon with the wines of Priorat, and an exotic replacement of Sonoma County merlot with the wines of Rioja.

On the white side of the spectrum, forgo the usual New Zealand sauvignon blanc for the uniqueness of albari—o from Rias Baixas, in northwest Spain. Ripe flavors of lemon peel, peach and honeysuckle make the perfect complement to Hawaii regional cuisine, especially lightly prepared white fish like ono, opah and 'opakapaka.

For many wine professionals, the wines of Portugal are even more exciting than those of Spain. If Spain is Ms. Popular of Middle World High School, then Portugal is the new girl destined to take over the crown. She is comparatively low-maintenance, more exotic and slightly more dangerous.

Made from the traditional grapes of fortified port production (such as tinta roriz and touriga nacional); the still red wines of Portugal are similar to Spain in their terroir and flavor. Think of the fruity zest of California merlot with a touch of the dark earth reminiscent of Bordeaux. The red wines of Portugal also carry the cachet of sommelier support because of their shockingly affordable prices. The only danger is that when they are good they are great, but when they are bad, they are undrinkable. Stick to top producers for a sure thing. The Portuguese white wine Vinho Verde is also a tremendous value. This "lemonade for grown ups" is a perfect substitute for the tired ol' Mai Tai as you watch a Hawaiian sunset.

Moving on to South Africa, you will notice a similar balance of flavors. The distinctive addition of smokiness inherent in their red wines is due either to the frequent use of the native grape pinotage or a natural byproduct of the local soil. Partial to big red grape varieties like cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah, South Africa feels very comfortable for many wine drinkers accustomed to California juice. The extra dimension of chimney ash provides a vital step, however, in the direction of wine exploration. On the white wine side, look out for chenin blanc, known locally as steen. This melon ball of a wine fits well in between the oaky-buttery California chardonnays and the steely-mineral whites of central Europe.

Possibly most importantly, the pinot noirs from Oregon's Willamette Valley also fall into this philosophic center of the Middle World. Of all wines classified in this category, the pinot noirs of Oregon might be the best representative of the genre. Containing the vibrant cherry-berry fruit of California with a hint of mushroom-covered pine needles reminiscent of Burgundy, France, Pacific Northwest pinot noirs are the perfect baby step for the everyday California red wine drinker ready to explore the rest of the wine world.

A myriad of world-class Oregon pinot noir producers have come into their own over the past decade. Look out for names like Beaux Frères, Ken Wright and Bergstrom for amazing examples of what pinot noir can taste like when in the hands of an expert. All of the individuals behind these iconic wineries speak like Frenchmen (constantly insisting they do very little in the vineyard and allow the individual terroir of the land take over), and act like Americans (preferring a cool Bud Light and casual conversation to wine psychobabble). Middle World winemakers making big waves in the Middle World of Willamette Valley, Oregon.

Middle World representatives: