It’s a collision of New Year’s traditions here in the Islands, from good-luck food to speed-eating practices meant to predict the outcome of the upcoming year. Here are a few of our favorites:

ALWAYS ‘AHI

The most widely observed New Year’s tradition in the Islands is the consumption of fresh ‘ahi. If there’s no ‘ahi on the table, it’s not New Year’s.
The now local tradition was started more than a century ago by Japanese immigrants who brought with them from Japan the tradition of eating fresh tai or sea bream for luck in the new year. Neither of those fish varieties are found here, prompting them to substitute ‘ahi. Now, ‘ahi for the new year is a must-have.
Due to the high demand, prices for the market-fresh fish soar during the holidays, and can cost as much as $50 per pound. This year, Guy Tamashiro, president of Tamashiro Market, estimates that the fish, which normally sells for about $10.95 per pound, will peak this week at about $30 per pound.

OZONI AND MOCHI-POUNDING

Ozoni is a rice cake soup traditionally eaten as the first meal of the new year for strength throughout the upcoming year. Many eat the soup at the stroke of midnight to ensure that it’s the very first thing that goes into their mouths.
Kuromame or sweet black beans are another traditional New Year’s Day food to ensure good health.
Mochi-pounding, the traditional Japanese ceremony of pounding rice into rice cakes, is as much a part of local Japanese New Year traditions as anything else.

PORTUGUESE GRAPE-EATING

The Portuguese herald in the new year by speed-eating. Traditionally, 12 grapes are eaten at the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Eve — one grape on every chime of the clock. The 12 grapes represent the 12 months of the new year. If the grapes are sweet, you’re in for a good year. If there’s a sour grape in the bunch, it means you’ll have one month of bad luck. If all 12 grapes are sour, we suggest pretending they’re extra-sweet. No one has to know, including Lady Luck.

KOREAN DUK KUK

Like the Japanese, Koreans eat their own version of a rice cake soup called duk kuk.
Koreans say if you don’t eat it on New Year’s Day, you won’t live to see next year.
Sorabol Korean Restaurant (805 Ke‘eaumoku St., 947-3113) serves it up for free on New Year’s Day, so there’s no excuse not to eat a bowl for good luck.

FILIPINO PANCIT

The long noodles that make up the traditional Filipino dish pancit are said to grant a long life. Pancit comes in two varieties: pancit bihon (long-rice-style) and pancit kanton (chow-mein-style). Both can be found at Elena’s Restaurant & Coffee Shop (2153 N. King St., 671-3279).