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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Thursday, August 27, 2009

Disabled surfers rise to challenge in Duke event


By Dayton Morinaga
Advertiser Staff Writer

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Paul McDonnell, who is deaf, won the AccesSurf Challenged Athlete Surfing final.

Photos by BERNIE BAKER | Special to The Advertiser

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Rich Julian, who lost the use of his legs in an accident more than 20 years ago, uses a custom-made board to ride waves. He placed second in the final.

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Waves were small off Waikiki yesterday.

Huge waves of inspiration made up for it in the AccesSurf Challenged Athlete Surfing competition.

For the second consecutive year, surfers with physical disabilities competed in the contest, which was part of the Duke's OceanFest at Kuhio Beach, Waikiki.

"With AccesSurf, our tagline is 'there's an ocean of possibilities,' " AccesSurf president Mark Marble said. "These guys showed it today. We had amputees, deaf surfers, surfers with spinal cord injuries ... they all went out there and surfed with aloha."

A dozen surfers entered the competition, each with a unique story.

Paul McDonnell of Hawai'i Kai won the contest. He is deaf, but has been surfing for more than 20 years.

"I can't hear, so I have to keep my eyes open," McDonnell said through a sign language interpreter. "The waves were small, but it was fun."

McDonnell, who is 34 and a science teacher for deaf students, said the six surfers in the final "helped each other out."

"This is a fun surfing event, and all the competitors had wonderful attitudes," he said through the interpreter. "I didn't know when the heat started because I can't hear the horn, but the other guys told me when to go."

McDonnell said he started surfing on his own when he was a teenager, and now helps instruct beginning surfers with the AccesSurf program.

Some surfers — like McDonnell — use standard boards. Others, like Rich Julian, have custom-made boards.

Julian lost the use of his legs in an accident more than 20 years ago. He sits on a board and uses a kayak-style paddle to ride the waves. He placed second yesterday.

Dana Cummings made a trip from Pismo Beach, Calif., to enter yesterday's contest. His left leg was amputated after a car accident seven years ago, and he learned to surf as part of his rehabilitation.

"Never surfed before I lost my leg," he said proudly. "This is one of the best therapeutic and rehabilitative things I could do to get myself going again. I really attribute surfing as one of the things that helped save my life and helped me from sinking into the dark side."

Another story of hope came from Jesse Delmar.

He was a lifeguard in Hilo when he wiped out on a 20-foot wave and broke his neck in 1997. He used to enter amateur surfing competitions prior to his accident.

After more than a decade of rehabilitation, he finally was able to lie on a board and ride waves a year ago.

Yesterday was his first surfing contest in 14 years. He placed third in the final.

"Actually, it feels better now," Delmar said. "It's been 12 years with my broken neck and a year since I got back on a board. It's a great feeling."

AccesSurf hosts monthly surfing sessions at White Plains Beach for people with any type of physical or mental disabilities. Marble said several professional surfers volunteer each month to assist.

"Any age, any challenge, come out and enjoy the beach," Marble said.

The Duke's OceanFest will continue today with competition in four events: Toes on the Nose Rabbit Kekai Pro Longboard Classic, Gidget Pro Women's Open, Senor Frog's Tandem World Title, and C4 Waterman Stand-up Beach Boy Paddle Surfing.

Heats will run from 7:30 a.m. to around 5:30 p.m. at Kuhio Beach.