TASTE
Japanese noodles, fusion flair
By Bill Daley
Chicago Tribune
| |||
 |
|
||
For Takashi Yagihashi, noodles represent not only his Japanese homeland but comfort.
"I love creating dishes that draw from the best of French and Japanese cuisine," he wrote in the foreword of his just-published first book, "Takashi's Noodles" (Ten Speed Press, $24.95). "But I also love my soul food, and have never stopped yearning for it: the simple, delicious noodles I still prepare at home for my family."
The veteran restaurateur, who first drew attention as chef de cuisine at Ambria, has added a new Sunday lunch menu at Takashi, his cozy Chicago restaurant in the Bucktown neighborhood. The menu is centered on traditional Japanese noodle dishes. The offerings include housemade ramen and soba dishes, udon and somen noodles imported from Japan, as well as other rustic Japanese dishes he takes pride in.
"I am not creating," insisted Yagihashi, who was named best Midwest chef in 2003 by the James Beard Foundation Awards. "I wanted to do it in a straight Japanese style."
Not so with the book. "Takashi's Noodles" offers 75 recipes, ranging from traditional Japanese noodle dishes to fusion cuisine to, well, one dish calling for leftover corned beef.
"I love the corned beef broth in which the meat cooks and didn't want to throw it away," he said with a smile.
There are a few rules for cooking Japanese and Asian noodles. Start with at least 4 quarts of water and 3 tablespoons of salt, Yagihashi wrote in his book. Test for doneness by tasting; the Japanese like their noodles cooked al dente.
Up next from Yagihashi: a cookbook focusing on tofu that he expects to complete in 10 months. There will be more than just recipes for tofu dishes here; instructions on how to make your own tofu will be included.
"The taste is so good when you make it from scratch," he said. The technique is "a little tricky but simple."
In his book, Yagihashi wrote he wanted to share his noodle recipes with other cooks in America. Here's a recipe that reflects his signature East-West viewpoint and capitalizes on another critical factor: seasonality.
Inaniwa udon, used in the following recipe, is a linguine-shaped noodle originally from far northern Japan. Buy inaniwa udon at Asian markets or use any type of udon noodle. Adapted from "Takashi's Noodles," by chef Takashi Yagihashi.
CHILLED NOODLES WITH HEIRLOOM TOMATOES AND RATATOUILLE
1. Combine the eggplant, zucchini, onion and bell pepper in a large bowl; cover with cold water. Soak 10 minutes; drain.
2. Heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat, 1 minute; add the vegetables and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are cooked through but not too soft, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl; refrigerate until cool, about 35 minutes.
3. Add the vinegar, soy sauce and remaining 2 tablespoons of the olive oil to the vegetables. Season with pepper; mix in basil. Divide noodles among 4 plates. Top with tomatoes, followed by the vegetable mixture, arugula, cheese and pine nuts.
Makes 6 servings.
