TASTE
Passion fruit a zingy accent in savory dishes
By Carole Kotkin
McClatchy-Tribune News Service
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Passion fruit is one of the most enticingly aromatic of fruits. Slice one in half, spoon the seeds and pulp into your mouth and experience a burst of flavor that seems to combine every tropical fruit.
Purple and egg-shaped, passion fruit is available year-round but is at its peak abundance and flavor right now. (Its name, by the way, comes not from its lovely flavor but from its flower, in which 16th century Spanish missionaries saw symbols of the passion, or crucifixion, of Christ.)
Passion fruit is usually associated with desserts, but its perfumed flavor and acidity make it a welcome addition to savory dishes, especially chicken, fish, duck and pork. For this Sunday's supper, I add passion fruit pulp to a classical French beurre blanc (wine-butter sauce) for pan-fried fish.
At the market, choose fruits that are large and heavy, with wrinkly yet firm shells. Avoid those that are soft. To ripen passion fruit, store at room temperature until it becomes dimply and sloshes when shaken.
When ripe, store passion fruit in the refrigerator or freeze it whole in plastic freezer bags. When you're ready to use it, just cut it in half. The pulp will defrost quickly and taste fresh. One passion fruit yields about 1 tablespoon of pulp.
You can strain out the seeds if you wish or leave them in and enjoy their nice crunch. Frozen passion fruit pulp, sold at most supermarkets, is a fine alternative to fresh.
COCONUT MAHI MAHI WITH PASSION FRUIT SAUCE
Put the coconut, flour, milk and eggs in separate shallow dishes. Beat the eggs well with 1 teaspoon salt. Set a wire rack over a cookie sheet.
Sprinkle the fillets with salt and pepper. Dip them one at a time in the milk, the flour, the egg and then the coconut, coating them well on both sides. Set the fillets on the rack, and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes to help the coating adhere.
Heat the oil and butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Saute the fillets, turning once, until the coconut is golden brown and the fish is opaque throughout, about 8 minutes total.
Transfer the fish to dinner plates, drizzle with sauce.
Makes 4 servings.
Source: Adapted from "MMMMiami-Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere" by Carole Kotkin and Kathy Martin (Henry Holt, $27.50).
SAVORY PASSION FRUIT SAUCE
Bring the wine, shallots, lime juice and passion fruit puree to a boil in a small, heavy saucepan. Cook until reduced to 1/3 cup, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, and whisk in the butter until it's melted and the sauce is slightly thickened. Serve immediately. Makes about 1/2 cup.
