HOLLYWOOD — When "American Idol" sneezes, American culture catches pneumonia. Across the Internet, beside the water coolers, on magazine covers and morning news chat shows, every inch of each week's show is subjected to scrutiny worthy of an International Atomic Energy Agency spot inspection team.

And of all the iffy decisions each contestant makes, none — not picking a terrible song, forgetting a lyric or flubbing an interview segment — is as likely to earn a singer the wrath of the nation as a bad fashion choice. "Pitchy" singing can be forgiven. Skeletons from one's past are gladly shoved back in the closet. But if you are a 17-year-old singer with a reputation more wholesome than Betty Crocker's, as David Archuleta's is, and you step on stage in leather pants, neither God nor man nor the Fox network can save you.

Who's riding this bronco? As it turns out, it's one dapper, soft-spoken Brit by the name of Miles Siggins. Having emerged from the U.K. punk scene, launched the Stussy line and worked to dress some of the giants of music before joining "American Idol" in its second season, Siggins still finds himself somewhat unprepared for the intensity of the microscope he lives under today as the show's chief stylist.

Asked about the leather pants incident, he took a deep breath and emitted a rueful chuckle: "They weren't leather pants, believe it or not. They were kind of a shiny wool. ... I didn't think they were going to be quite as shiny on camera."

"Idol" is a challenge for a stylist who more typically works on an established image. "It's kind of a very, very unique job for a stylist because you get to work with these people for 16 weeks. So you get to kind of help them progress and help them change their image and help them become, you know, a star. ... I always say to them, 'The first thing, when you walk out on that stage, people don't hear you sing, people see what you look like.' They have to make that visual impact as well."

Having worked since Season 2 on fashion personas for all of "American Idol's" often-inexperienced (and looking it) contestants, Siggins this season has focused his work on the 12 men who emerged from Hollywood Week.

Siggins accompanies each contestant on a two-hour shopping trip. Each is given $400 a week, and every dollar spent over this limit comes out of their own pockets, a sacrifice Siggins often encourages. "I say to them, 'It's an investment in your future. I very much doubt you're ever again going to be in front of 30 million people every week.' "