PORTLAND, Ore. — Some cities are hard for the casual visitor to handle. Traffic, confusing maps, far-flung attractions, and too many chain stores can make the tourist's quest for a hassle-free visit impossible.

Portland is not one of those places. It's a day-tripper's paradise. The city's funky, laid-back personality is easy to sample on the street and in quirky local stores. Its restaurants reflect Oregon's great produce and the seafood of the Pacific. Metered street parking is plentiful. And while typical Northwest weather means you must pack an umbrella, it's also why Portland's gardens are so beautiful.

A whirlwind six-hour visit to Portland with my family started at the flagship store for Powell's City of Books, which claims to be the world's largest independent new and used book store, with six retail locations and more than 4 million books among them. It's a dangerous place to visit if you're flying home, because you're sure to exceed your luggage limit with all the books you'll buy. I walked out with a half-dozen books, including "Breakfast at Tiffany's," which I'd always meant to read, and a haunting novel of Communist-era Czechoslovakia called "Giraffe" that I never would have noticed had it not been so fetchingly displayed on a shelf at eye-level. Then it was off to find carbs and coffee.

Voodoo Doughnut is about as far as you can get from Dunkin' Donuts or Krispy Kreme and still be a doughnut shop. It's open 24 hours a day and revels in its weirdness. Decorations include candles, a skull, a tribal mask and a handwritten "Support your local doughnut!" poster.

The doughnuts are enormous and downright wacky, including vegan doughnuts, doughnuts designed to resemble erotic body parts, and doughnuts with names like "Dirt" (covered with vanilla glaze and Oreo cookies). I took the boring route and got a yummy apple fritter.

Next stop: the Portland Classical Chinese Garden, a tranquil jewel in Portland's Chinatown. Here you'll find goldfish swimming in a pond, brightly colored peonies, serene mosaic paths with lush greenery, and authentically built pavilions with hand-carved decor.

Also on the itinerary was Washington Park, to see Portland's famous International Rose Test Garden. The garden was established during World War I when roses were shipped over from Europe to safeguard them from wartime destruction. They have thrived to create one of the country's most luscious showcases for the flower, with large and deeply hued blossoms.

The garden's four glorious acres are filled with perfumed air and waves of orange, pink, purple, red, yellow and creamy white flowers. It is located on a terraced hill overlooking the city skyline, but the weather does not always afford a clear view.

Up the hill from the roses but still in Washington Park, you'll find the Japanese Garden. No roses here; just a green, peaceful setting with a bridge, water, walkways and stonework. If you're traveling with kids, be sure to visit Washington Park's Oregon Zoo, home to bears, elephants, tigers and many other creatures.

It was time for a late lunch. Destination: Jake's Famous Crawfish, where a friend had told me the cedar-baked salmon was not to be missed. The salmon was just one fantastic part of an unforgettable feast, which I shared with my husband and two children. (The kids abandoned their usual picky attitudes once they realized how good the food was.)

It was a wonderful end to a perfect day in Portland. There were so many things to do here — more gardens, museums, historic districts, markets and tours — that it seemed a shame to leave. But we had other places to go, and our unfinished itinerary was merely an invitation to come back. As long as you don't mind the rain, Portland is worth a return trip.