FASHION
Kimono Samba
By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer
Kimono Samba sounds like a culture clash. The mind conjures a picture of a pretty Japanese girl in a kimono and obi, undulating to the Latin sounds of samba. Actually, however, it's far more harmonious.
In Japanese, samba means midwife. Chieko Yamaguchi calls her fashion design business Kimono Samba because she sees it as the rebirth of the kimono. She and her 50 students, who live in eight different areas of Japan, buy old kimonos from flea markets and specialized vendors and re-create them as contemporary gowns, dresses, tunics and pants.
Yamaguchi's approach to working with kimono differs from some local designers such, as Anne Namba and Montsuki, who combine pieces of kimono with other fabrics to create contemporary silhouettes.
Yamaguchi and her students try to keep the kimono largely intact. A kimono consists of eight rectangles, and they treat the pieces like a jigsaw puzzle, rearranging and reshaping with selective snips.
"I try to fit human body but wrap around the body. I try to preserve our tradition but in modern way," Yamaguchi wrote in an e-mail from Japan.
In a way, the body is treated like an omiyage (gift), wrapped in a furoshiki, a large scarflike piece of fabric, often silk, that is tied together to provide an elegant gift wrap.
Yamaguchi does not employ any zippers or buttons, only sashes and string ties. This offers the wearer tremendous flexibility. The width and length can both be adjusted according to the woman's preferences.
Kimonos in Japan are somewhat like mu'umu'u these days — fewer and fewer women are wearing them on a daily basis.
"When I was young girl, kimono was worn every day, and it was less than 50 years ago. After the war, Japan has tried to introduce the Western way of living so much, then tradition (was) kept behind," Yamaguchi explained.
Rather than wearing kimonos, many contemporary Japanese women keep them (and those of their mothers and grandmothers) tucked away in a tansu (chest of drawers).
Yamaguchi and 32 of her Kimono Samba students will be coming to Honolulu for a show called "Open Your Tansu" (see box). Fifteen of the students will present 30 ensembles, while Yamaguchi will show 40. In addition, 2Couture designer Takeo will show his latest collection of red carpet looks.
Reach Paula Rath at paularath@aol.com.