Poach the raisins: In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the raisins, wine, 1 tablespoon orange juice, 1 1/2 teaspoons rum and 2 tablespoons sugar. Bring just to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Lower the heat so the liquid is at a bare simmer, and cook for 20 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat, cover with plastic wrap and allow to cool to room temperature. Transfer the raisins to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator. This makes a generous 1/2 cup raisins; you will need 2 tablespoons for this recipe.

Make the strawberry sauce: Set aside 2 cups of the strawberries and 2 tablespoons sugar. In a heavy saucepan, combine the remaining strawberries with 1/4 cup water, 3/4 cup sugar, the remaining 3/4 cup orange juice, star anise and Grand Marnier. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to infuse for 10 minutes, then remove the plastic and discard the star anise. Cover with plastic again and allow to sit for 2 hours. Pass the sauce through a fine-mesh strainer and set aside or refrigerate if not using right away.

For the "pancakes," place a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 400 degrees. Generously butter two 9- or 10-inch glass pie plates or round cake pans. Add a heaping tablespoon of sugar to each pan and tap and turn the pans to dust evenly. Tap out any excess sugar.

In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks with 2 tablespoons of the sugar until the mixture is light and lemony-yellow. Beat in the fromage blanc and scrape down the bowl and beaters. Beat in the creme fraiche and rum. Beat in the flour and 2 tablespoons of the raisins. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the egg whites on medium-low speed until they foam, then add the cream of tartar. Turn up the speed to medium and continue to beat while streaming in 7 tablespoons of sugar, one tablespoon at a time. Beat the whites to medium-stiff peaks.

Fold half of the egg whites into the creme fraiche base. Gently fold in the remaining egg whites. Divide the batter between the two pans. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until it is just starting to puff and color. Turn the pans 180 degrees and bake for another 3 to 5 minutes, until puffed and golden-brown. The center should be puddinglike.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, bring the strawberry sauce to a boil over high heat. Add the final 2 tablespoons sugar and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Add the reserved 2 cups strawberries and heat through, then remove from the heat and divide among the serving plates.

When the pancakes are done, remove them from the oven and, using a serving spoon, divide each into 6 or 8 portions. Place two portions on each plate and dust with powdered sugar. You can also arrange all the portions on a platter, with the sauce, and serve family style. Serve immediately.

Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus cooling time

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

This recipe is from Los Angeles Times test kitchen director Donna Deane. It calls for 6 (4-inch) individual tart pans. Other types of fruit or berries may be used if you can't find blackberries — raspberries, strawberries and so on. Or use frozen berries, thawed and well drained.

LEMON SPONGE CAKE WITH ITALIAN MERINGUE AND BLACKBERRY PUREE

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter six 4-inch individual tart pans with removable bottoms.

Carefully rinse the blackberries and pat them dry. (Set aside the 12 berries for garnish.) Puree the half pint of berries in a food processor or blender until smooth, then strain the puree through a fine mesh strainer and discard the seeds. Stir 1 tablespoon sugar into the puree and set aside.

In a large bowl, stir together the flour, cake flour and salt and set aside. In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks with 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar until thick and lemon-colored. Stir in the lemon zest and vanilla and set aside while beating the egg whites.

Beat 3 of the egg whites along with the cream of tartar to soft peaks. Gradually beat in 3 tablespoons sugar until stiff peaks form. Quickly fold the beaten egg whites into the beaten egg yolks. Fold in the flour mixture until just combined. Then quickly fold in the melted butter. Divide the mixture evenly among the tart pans and gently smooth the tops.

Place the tart pans on a baking sheet. Bake about 15 minutes, until the cakes are lightly browned and set in the center. Cool on a wire rack, then remove from the tart pans.

In a small saucepan, combine 1/4 cup water and the remaining 3/4 cup sugar. Cook over medium heat until the syrup reaches 238 degrees on a candy thermometer. Remove from the heat. Beat the remaining three egg whites to form soft peaks, 30 seconds to 1 minute. With the mixer running at medium speed add the syrup in a slow stream. Continue beating until the meringue is cool and stiff peaks form, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Place the cakes on a baking sheet. Divide the meringue evenly among the six cakes and spread over the top. The meringue also can be spooned into a pastry bag with a large round tip and piped over the cakes. Place the cakes under the broiler until the edges are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes.

To serve the cakes, garnish each with a couple of fresh blackberries, and drizzle a little blackberry puree around each cake. Serve immediately.

Total time: 50 minutes, plus cooling time

Makes 6 servings.

Finally, here's a rather basic meringue paired with a fruit sorbet. This, again, is from Times test kitchen director Donna Deane. You will have leftover orange sherbet; reserve for another use.

HAZELNUT MERINGUES WITH ORANGE SHERBET

Heat the oven to 225 degrees. In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl with a hand-held mixer, beat the egg whites until frothy on medium speed, about 1 minute. Add the cream of tartar and continue to beat to soft peaks, a minute more. Gradually add the sugar and continue beating until stiff peaks form, an additional 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the vanilla and lemon juice. Fold in the hazelnuts.

Use a 2 1/4-inch ring to trace circles onto parchment paper on a baking sheet. Spoon about 1 tablespoon of the meringue onto the center of a circle, and spread evenly to the edges. Repeat with the remaining meringue.

As you finish spreading each tray of meringues place them in the oven to bake for 1 hour to set the meringues, then turn off the oven but leave the trays inside for an additional 2 hours to allow the meringues to dry out. Remove from the oven, and gently peel them off the parchment paper. Store, loosely covered and in a dry area, at room temperature, until needed. The meringues will keep for two days.

Just before serving, spoon a tablespoon of sherbet onto a hazelnut meringue and top with another meringue, gently pressing the meringues into the sherbet to form a sandwich. Dust the tops lightly with powdered sugar.

Serve 2 meringue sandwiches per person.

Makes 21 small ice cream sandwiches.