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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, October 21, 2007

Fall's in love with hoodies

 •  Hooded sweatshirts a hit with stars

By Melissa Magsaysay
Los Angeles Times

The hoodie — that beloved, if ratty, staple of the gym locker — has become fashion's latest blank canvas. It started a few years back, when the Juicy Couture girls tweaked it to become a stylish wardrobe essential. Then streetwear designers such as Bathing Ape and Hysteric Glamour covered it in graffiti as a means of underground expression. Los Angeles-to-Paris transplant Rick Owens deconstructed it and made it an art form, and Karl Lagerfeld blinged it almost beyond recognition in the latest Chanel resort collection.

This fall, the hoodie — adorned, stoned or graphic; leather, cashmere or silk — is bringing a streetwise edge to feminine dresses, skinny jeans and high-waist trousers.

And for men, it's bridging the territory between blazer and bomber. Put one over a classic white shirt, black necktie and dark denim or polished trousers, and you've got a look that's sophisticated enough for work, but not as serious as a suit.

• • •

HOW TO MAKE A HOODED TUNIC DRESS

Time: About 40 minutes.

Materials: A men's hooded sweatshirt size XXL, scissors, needle, thread and a piece of elastic one-quarter-inch wide and about 12 inches long.

1. Lay the sweatshirt flat on a table. About half an inch below the lower part of the armhole, cut the sweatshirt in half horizontally.

2. Turn the top half inside out. Take the elastic and lay it over your shoulder with one end starting at the side of your neck. Cut it off where your shoulder ends. Sew one end of the elastic to the neck opening on the sweatshirt and the other end onto the end of the shoulder. Then stretch out the elastic and, while it's stretched, sew the entire length of the elastic onto the shoulder seam. After it is sewn down, the elastic should snap back so the shoulder is ruched when turned right-side out. Repeat for the other shoulder.

3. Take the bottom half of the sweatshirt and slip it on so it fits tightly around the rib cage. Grab the extra fabric in the back — this extra fabric will become the origami pleat. Sew the top of the pleat closed. Iron the pleat down, so the folds are nice and crisp and the effect looks intentional.

4. Connect the top to the bottom: With the top and bottom turned inside out, gather the top evenly so its raw edge aligns with that of the bottom (you will need to create little gathers so that the top will become as small as the bottom; they don't need to be uniform). Pin the top and bottom together, right sides facing each other, and sew the seam. Turn right side out.

5. Make the sleeves: Measure about 6 inches from the top of the shoulder down the arm and about 4 inches from the underarm down the arm. Mark the spots, and cut the arm off on a diagonal line formed from these measurements (the angled slice makes a dolman sleeve). Fold the sleeve up, tuck the raw edge under to make a two-inch contrasting fleece cuff. Turn inside out and sew down the edge of the cuff (the bottom edge of the cuff should meet the armpit seam). Repeat for other arm. Turn right side out and wear as a dress or a tunic.

— Adapted from Mike Gonzalez of Mike & Chris