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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, May 13, 2007

Eight great things to do in Central Park

 •  Explore the backyard of New York City

By Anne McDonough
Washington Post

Baseball diamonds line the 44-acre oval of Central Park's Great Lawn. The complex to its left is the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

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IF YOU GO ...

Central Park, bordered by 59th Street, 110th Street, Fifth Avenue and Central Park West, is closed from 1 to 6 a.m.; entrance is free. The Central Park Conservancy — (212) 310-6600, www.centralparknyc.org — which manages the park, offers free, printable maps as well as info on free tours, many leaving from the points below.

  • Pick up maps and souvenirs at the Dairy Visitor Center & Gift Shop; also, borrow sets to play at the nearby Chess and Checkers House. Mid-park at 65th Street, (212) 794-6564. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

  • The city's weather report is taken from Belvedere Castle, a Gothic-style structure that lends binoculars and bird books; climb to the top for a spectacular view over the Shakespeare Garden and Turtle Pond. Mid-park at 79th Street, (212) 772-0210. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

  • The Swedish Cottage Marionette Theatre is open year-round, with breaks between shows. "Cinderella Samba" runs through June 17. Reservations required; $6. 79th Street and West Drive, south of Delacorte Theater, (212) 988-9093.

  • Kids of all ages can ride the Friedsam Memorial Carousel and get "Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da" stuck in their heads. Mid-park at 63rd Street, (212) 879-0244. $1.50. Open April to October daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (7 on weekends); November and December, 10 a.m. to dusk; January to March, 10 a.m. to dusk, weekends and holidays only.

  • Bait and rods for catch-and-release fishing can be found at the Charles A. Dana Discovery Center, on the Harlem Meer. 110th Street between Fifth Avenue and Malcolm X Boulevard (Lenox Avenue), (212) 860-1370. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Rods can be picked up until about 2 to 3 p.m., April-October.)

  • Rental bikes and boats are available from the Loeb Boathouse, 72nd Street and Park Drive North, (212) 517-2233. Bikes: March 4-Oct. 31, daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m., from $9 an hour. Boats: April 15-Oct. 31, daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m., $10 an hour.

  • The Central Park Skate Patrol offers weekend "stopping clinics." There are no in-line skate rentals in the park, but Blades Board and Skate — 156 W. 72nd St., (212) 787-3911; $20 a day — has a location close to the park. (212) 439-1234, www.skatepatrol.org.

  • November through March, half the rink is open for public ice skating at Lasker Rink and Pool; from July to Labor Day, the space is a free public pool. Mid-park between 106th and 108th streets, (917) 492-3856 or (212) 534-7639.

  • Wollman Rink opens for ice skating November through March; May 26 though Sept. 16, it's home to a small amusement park. East side between 62nd and 63rd streets, (212) 439-6900 (rink admission from $9.50, skates $5) or (212) 982-2229 (amusement park admission from $6.50).

  • Day passes are available for tennis at the Central Park Tennis Center (between 93rd and 96th streets off West Drive, (212) 316-0800; $7 for pass, $5 for rackets) and for indoor climbing on the (small) wall at the North Meadow Recreation Center (mid-park at 97th Street, (212) 348-4867; $7).

  • Central Park Zoo admission includes a visit to the adjacent Tisch Children's Zoo, an open-air petting area. 64th Street and Fifth Avenue, (212) 439-6500. $8.

    — Anne McDonough

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    Biking through Central Park is an efficient way to take in its 843 acres of lawns, woodlands, sculptures, water features, buildings and more.

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    MEET CELEBS

    You don't need to head to Broadway to catch the crews from "Avenue Q" and "Wicked." Just hang out at the Heckscher ball fields in the park's southern section, where for more than 50 years, the Broadway Show League — actors, stagehands and other theater types — has played softball. Games are Thursdays from about 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., from April through mid-August.

    Actor Matthew Broderick helped kick off the 2007 softball season last month, the first following a $3 million restoration of the fields; his team won the league championship last season.

    Then there are the local celebrities, such as the park's honorary mayor, a tan, mustachioed 92-year-old named Alberto Arroyo, who claims to be the first person to run around the Reservoir, back in the 1930s. "I know every inch of Central Park," he said last week. The Reservoir is surrounded by a 1.58-mile track used by runners and cameratoting tourists every day of the week. Arroyo can be found sitting here most days with his walker. He happily takes credit for every jogger who passes by, most of whom wave or stop to say hello.

    Perhaps fewer people approach Thoth, another park regular whose look and sound pretty much defy characterization. The other Sunday, I found him — dressed in a short red silk robe, strappy sandals and a black and red feather headdress — in the Bethesda Terrace Arcade, part of a series of terraces and archways mid-park near 72nd Street. Chances are you'll hear Thoth before you see him, as he uses the arcade's incredible acoustics to "prayform" his "soloperas," a sort of yowling accompanied by violin, hand bell and foot-stamping.

    While you're in the arcade, look up. The ceiling's 15,876 19th-century tiles, which were removed in the 1980s, were restored and unveiled in March. The $7 million restoration is yet another indication of how the park, under the stewardship of the nonprofit Central Park Conservancy, has transformed from the graffiti-ridden, lawless space of the '60s, '70s and early '80s.

    GO SKATE-DANCING

    You can skate throughout much of the park, but only at mid-park, near the Mall and the bandshell area, can you groove to funk and house music.

    "If you're not skating, check your pulse — you might be dead," someone called out as DJs Nick Johnson and Andre Collins played for the crowd on a recent Sunday afternoon in the park's Skate Circle. It's free, and anyone with skates (in-line or four-wheeled) is welcome; you just have to keep moving to the beat. From about 2:30 to 6:30 p.m. on weekends from April through October, skaters go 'round and 'round the DJs' gear.

    The Central Park Dance Skaters Association lists times, dates and a DJ lineup — there are 26 of them, playing everything from Latin music to R&B, reggae, house and funk — on its Web site, www.cpdsa.org.

    TAKE IN A SHOW

    You probably know about the summer season of Shakespeare in the Park at the Delacorte Theater. But you may not know that the circa-1876 schoolhouse next door is home to an equally inspired troupe: a cast of wildly creative puppets.

    I joined about 60 preschoolers and their parents for a recent Sunday's matinee of "Cinderella Samba" at the Swedish Cottage Marionette Theatre near 79th Street and loved every minute of the hourlong production.

    The adults laughed as much as the kids, and we all bounced along in our bench seats to the Brazilian music. The theater is open year-round with a few weeks off here and there; call (212) 988-9093 for reservations and a schedule. Tickets are $6.

    COMMUNE WITH NATURE

    If you've been to Central Park even once, chances are you've explored its southern end, which features the famous Zoo and Carousel — Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, the park's 19th-century architects, designed that part as the Children's District. But until the artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude's popular "Gates" installation sent swatches of saffron material through the entire park in 2005, the northern end was generally ignored by out-of-town visitors — and by plenty of New Yorkers as well.

    In the North End (everything above 97th Street), the carefully engineered landscape of the lower park gives way to a more natural approach, particularly on the west side. "It's more romantic and beautiful, and there's a Hudson River feel to it," said Central Park Conservancy President Douglas Blonsky.

    Last month, the Peter Jay Sharp Children's Glade opened between 103rd and 106th streets, west of the Great Hill Oval. The small woodland area reinvents the concept of playground: Instead of swings and jungle gyms, there are rock outcroppings, winding pathways and a mysterious catalpa tree "that looks like it's talking to you," Blonsky said.

    Just south of the glade is the lovely, willow-lined Pool; at its eastern end is a 14-foot waterfall that runs into the Ravine, a 90-acre woodland that is the most intensely natural-looking part of this almost entirely man-made park. Note: Practice the buddy system here. The park is considered quite safe during the day, but be cautious in wooded areas.

    If you keep trekking through the Ravine, you'll pass at least two more waterfalls and eventually emerge at Lasker, which is an ice rink in winter and a public pool in summer. Wind east and you'll be at the Harlem Meer, the best place in the park for catch-and-release fishing.

    FIND A SECRET GARDEN

    It's not technically a secret ... but south of Harlem Meer, near 105th Street, is what Blonsky calls "one of the most spectacular gardens" in the whole park. It's also the only formal one.

    When I'm looking to feel a bit of Old New York glamour, I enter the six-acre Conservatory Garden from Fifth Avenue, through the Vanderbilt Gate, and imagine that I'm a society guest at one of the many weddings that are photographed here.

    Going in that way, you're in the Italian section, its long green lawn flanked by crabapple trees that in early May had just burst into bloom. Go left and you're in the English-style section, filled with perennials, along with a monument to Frances Hodgson Burnett, the British children's author who made this city kid fall in love with gardens. To the north, star magnolias and tulips are hallmarks of the French garden, where a statue called "Three Dancing Maidens" holds court amid the spraying jets of an oval fountain.

    MEET THE LOCALS

    Think New Yorkers don't know their neighbors? Take a walk in Central Park around 7:30 in the morning, when dog owners convene for their daily meet-and-greets, and "hellos" and "good mornings" are tossed about freely. Dogs may be off-leash in much of the park between 9 p.m. and 9 a.m. (the park is technically closed from 1 to 6 a.m.), and locals take full advantage.

    Early in the morning, when you and the dog walkers and the insomniacs have the Mall to yourselves, the light filtering through the wavy, thick branches overhead makes for some of the most photogenic scenes in the city.

    At the Loeb Boathouse, where you can have a fancy meal or rent rowboats, a coffee klatch of sorts gathers every morning at the outdoor snack bar. Play with the dogs, talk politics with their owners ("We go from all the way left to all the way right," said Eleanor Stark, who said she has lived in New York for more than 40 years), and pick up tips from the crowd.

    GO BIRDING

    Central Park is a stopping point on the Atlantic flyway, and, according to the Conservancy, more than 275 species of birds have been spotted there. Many of them can be found in the Ramble, a bird-watcher's paradise northwest of the Boathouse.

    Sightings are easier during early-morning visits, but you'll need your own equipment. If you arrive after 10 a.m., binoculars, bird books and clipboards to record your sightings are available to borrow from Belvedere Castle, a Gothic-style visitors center on the north side of the Ramble (every day except Monday).

    Another favorite spot of local birders is the Arthur Ross Pinetum, with its more than 400 trees and 15 species of pines. Particularly in winter, the evergreens provide cover for owls and other birds. New York City Bird Report (www.nycbirdreport.com) is an enthusiast site that lists birds likely to be seen in the park.

    HAVE A SCAVENGER HUNT

    The park, which opened in 1873, may have been conceived as a recreational escape from 19th-century city life, but it's also packed with references to history, literature and world politics. Among the park's oddball collection of statuary worth seeing:

  • Mother Goose, to the east of Rumsey Playfield and south of the 72nd Street transverse.

  • Alice in Wonderland, near the Model Boat Pond.

  • Balto, a sled dog who delivered diphtheria antitoxins to Nome in an Alaskan blizzard, near the children's zoo.

  • King Jagiello, who united Lithuania and Poland in the 14th century, near Turtle Pond. The statue came to New York for the 1939 World's Fair.

  • Mary Lennox and her pal Dickon from Frances Hodgson Burnett's "The Secret Garden," at 105th Street and Fifth Avenue.