TASTE
A colorful sampling of Chef Nobu's signature dishes
| Chef Nobu shares his food philosophy |
By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor
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Here's a taste of Nobu Matsuhisa's cooking style in advance of his restaurant's opening in Waikiki.
All of these recipes are from Matsuhisa's third book, "Nobu West," co-authored with Mark Edwards, chef of Nobu London (Andrews McMeel, hardback, $39.95).
In this impressive first course, fresh oysters on the half shell are dressed with a sprightly (and easy to make) herb "salsa." Nobu turns the oysters over inside the half shell to expose the top of the oyster to the oyster liquor and to loosen them, making it easier for the diner.
OYSTERS WITH MINT AND CUCUMBER SALSA
For the salsa:
In a bowl, combine cucumber, red onion, ponzu and mint.
Open the oysters, and turn each one over inside the shell. Arrange on a bed of crushed ice in a suitable serving dish.
Spoon a little salsa over each oyster. Garnish with carrot and cucumber shavings (use a mandoline, a vegetable peeler or a hand-held Microplane shaver).
Serves 2.
*Note: Add the mint to the salsa only at the last minute as it tends to become discolored quickly.
PONZU SAUCE
Mix in bowl and leave overnight to infuse. Remove konbu before use.
Makes 1 cup.
Tataki — a technique in which meats or fish are flash-seared but left uncooked within — here is used with salmon fillets, which are combined with a shaved salad, instead of the usual salad greens or shredded cabbage. Texture is everything in this dish: The paper-thin vegetables are given an ice bath to give them snap, contrasting with the tender salmon.
SALMON TATAKI WITH PAPER-THIN SALAD
Prepare three bowls of ice water. Slice the beets paper-thin using a mandoline grater and rinse under cold running water until the water runs clear; place in a bowl of ice water. Slice beets, carrots, zucchini, turnips and radishes and place in the other bowl of ice water. Leave vegetables in ice water 1 hour, which will cause them to tighten up and become crunchy.
Heat a nonstick skillet until medium-hot. Season the salmon fillets with pepper to taste, then sear for 5 seconds a side. Make sure the outside is completely seared and has turned whitish. Immediately plunge the salmon into ice water to stop the cooking process. Drain and pat dry with paper towels, then refrigerate until ready to use.
Drain the vegetables and combine them in a bowl.
Place a pool of jalapeno dressing on the bottom of each of four serving plates. Cut the chilled, seared salmon into slices about 1/4-inch thick and arrange across the middle of the plate. Place vegetable salad in the middle on top of the salmon. You may drizzle a little more dressing on top if desired.
Serve immediately.
Serves 4.
*If you can't find turnips, which aren't used much in Hawai'i, substitute more of the other ingredients.
JALAPENO DRESSING
In a food processor, process jalapeno, salt, garlic and vinegar until mixed and chili is finely chopped. Slowly add the grapeseed oil while pulsing until well-blended.
This silky and simple soup, using a homemade dashi base, can be made with spinach, as well. And it can be served either hot or cold.
WATERCRESS AND SOY MILK SOUP
Pick the watercress leaves from the stems, set aside.
In a large saucepan, bring the dashi just to a boil, add the watercress stems and simmer 5 minutes. Pour the mixture into a blender and puree until smooth.
Pour the mixture through a strainer back into the saucepan and add the soy milk. Bring the soup to a slow simmer and add the watercress leaves, reserving a few for garnish. Simmer for 3 minutes.
Blend again until smooth and strain into a clean saucepan. Reheat the soup and add the soy sauce, then season to taste with salt and pepper.
Ladle into bowls and garnish with a few shredded watercress leaves.
Serves 4.
*Note: Since Hawai'i watercress is much more leggy than Mainland or English watercress, which grow in tender, compact bunches, trim away most of the fibrous stems before use, leaving just the steams nearest the leaves.
DASHI
Heat the water and konbu together slowly in a saucepan over medium heat. Just before the water boils, remove the konbu, add the bonito flakes and turn off the heat. When the flakes sink to the bottom of the pan, strain and use.
*Some people like to wipe away the white film of MSG from the konbu before use; Nobu uses it as is.
Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.