FORD ISLAND — Gun turret No. 1 on the battleship Missouri is a rotating, steel-encased enclosure the size of a living room fronted by 16 inches of armor and triple 16-inch guns.

The barrels, each the weight of a space shuttle, could hurl a nearly one-ton high-explosive round up to 23 miles with an accompanying hellstorm of muzzle fire — enough to incinerate the deck if the guns weren't pointed broadside. On the receiving end, the shells would blow a hole 20 feet deep the size of a tennis court.

In 1991 during Operation Desert Storm, the Mighty Mo sent 784 rounds screaming into Iraqi-occupied Kuwait in a complex orchestra involving more than 75 men per gun turret and a conveyor system sending up the big rounds and bags of powder from several decks below.

On or about Jan. 29, exactly eight years after the battleship opened as a museum and memorial in Pearl Harbor facing the sunken USS Arizona, the 3 millionth visitor is expected to step aboard the Mighty Mo's teak decks.

The history that preceded that milestone, including Japan's Sept. 2, 1945, on-deck surrender in a ceremony overseen by Gen. Douglas MacArthur in Tokyo Bay, continues to be revealed bit by bit.

Recently made available for public tour, on a limited basis, were turret No. 1 and a chief petty officer's "legacy center." In 2004, engine room No. 4 was opened, and visitors could peak into turret No. 3.

While attendance is good at the nonprofit memorial at just under 400,000 visitors a year, and the operation is self-sustaining, USS Missouri Memorial Association President and COO Don Hess said closer to 500,000 would be better.

"We think we're of interest to a lot more people than 400,000 (annually), but we have to make them know that we're here," Hess said. "We can certainly handle 500,000 very comfortably."

The famed battleship continues to settle in at Pier F-5 at Ford Island near the Arizona Memorial, the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum and the new Pacific Aviation Museum — Pearl Harbor. And backers are planning some major capital improvements, including replacing about 53,000 square feet of teak deck and a dry-docking within the next decade.

Hess estimates the teak and environmental remediation to remove lead-based paint beneath it will cost more than $6 million. The dry-docking, which officials hope can be accomplished at Pearl Harbor, could cost more than $15 million.

FUNDRAISER TONIGHT

A new capital campaign is being developed, and an inaugural "A Night of American Heroes" dinner, musical salute and fundraiser is being held tonight at Hilton Hawaiian Village Coral Ballroom.

About 1,000 people are expected for the tribute to U.S. Sen. Daniel K. Inouye, D-Hawai'i, and entertainer Jim Nabors, who played lovable Marine Gomer Pyle on TV in the 1960s.

"Dan Inouye has always been a strong representation of American heroism for not only the people here in Hawai'i but nationwide through his service in World War II and his civic duty as our senator," said Louise Funai, vice president of development for the Missouri association.

In Italy during World War II, Inouye charged a German machine-gun nest throwing grenades and firing a machine gun even after his right arm was shattered by a rifle grenade.

Funai said Nabors, who lives in Hawai'i, played the Marine "who is so patriotic and loyal," and also provided entertainment on USO tours to Vietnam and other locations.

Inouye's schedule is preventing him from being present at the tribute, but he'll deliver a videotaped message.

In a statement yesterday, Inouye said: "The USS Missouri and the USS Arizona are the bookends of World War II. If the Arizona represents the resilient spirit of the American people, then the Missouri speaks to America's triumphant victory."

Inouye, who opposes a U.S. troop increase in Iraq, also drew parallels to the war there.

"The price of honor, at times, comes at a supreme cost as blood is shed on the battlefield — whether in Italy 65 years ago or in Baghdad today. It should serve as a reminder to all of the tragedy and darkness of war," he said.

The USS Missouri Memorial Association hopes to raise about $340,000 from tonight's event, Funai said. Hess said part of that money will go toward hiring a full-time educator to work with local schools.

MORE TO SEE

History lessons, meanwhile, were on display a little more at the Missouri this week with tours allowed inside gun turret No. 1. Visitors also got to see engine room No. 4 and the brig. A future plan calls for the dental clinic to be re-equipped.

Temperatures reached 120 degrees in the below-decks engine room that featured steam-powered turbines in a space full of pipes, valves and multileveled gangways.

"(I'm) just trying to place myself in the shoes of the men who were here and how hot it was and the sacrifice," said Steve Turrentine, who was visiting from Colorado Springs, Colo., this week.

In the brig, a prisoner log from Christmas Day in 1991 revealed a suicide watch for a belligerent sailor depressed about being away from family over the holidays.

Visitors have to ask to be taken up inside gun turret No. 1, which requires a low stoop and climb up into the uppermost chamber because the entry is too difficult for some. Making it a part of the already 90-minute "Explorer's Tour" would make a lengthy guided tour even longer, officials said.

Marc David Weintraub, a tour guide on the Missouri, said people are awestruck by the big guns. They are even more awestruck when they climb inside the upper turret room and realize there were nearly 30 men in that room alone. All worked as part of a team to fire the guns every 30 seconds.

"Everybody has basically the same reaction — 'We didn't know so much went into doing this,' " Weintraub said.

Reach William Cole at wcole@honoluluadvertiser.com.