HILO, Hawai'i — The 'Imiloa Astronomy Center — an unconventional museum near the base of massive Mauna Kea volcano offering the story of the star-filled skies that guided discoverers to the Hawaiian Islands — is about more than outer space. It doubles as a cultural center, with Hawaiian-language translations displayed on every exhibit and a focus on islanders' history of exploration.

Tours start with an indoor walk through a replica forest of koa trees until you reach a room dedicated to Mauna Kea itself, the 13,796-foot mountain that provides one of the clearest views into space of any place on Earth.

The museum, designed to evoke the tallest three of the island's volcanoes, brings the 13 giant telescopes atop the inhospitable peak of Mauna Kea closer to tourists. Native Hawaiian groups oppose the telescopes, and the summit is basically off limits for casual tourists.

The astronomy center also offers a step back in time — way back. The Mauna Kea room is filled with the sparkling stars that Polynesian voyagers used to navigate their way across the Pacific until they arrived in Hawai'i. Native Hawaiian chants surround visitors as they learn about the sacred nature of the volcano, which is said to be the home of the snow goddess Poli'ahu.

Mauna Kea has long been a source of contention between international scientists who have installed the powerful telescopes at its peak and Hawaiians who believe it is a sacred place that should have been left untouched.

"It's not a secret that there's tension over Mauna Kea," said Kaiu Kimura, an experiences coordinator at 'Imiloa. "Historically, people have always had to say whether they're a cultural practitioner or a believer in science. We're trying to say that we're both."

FOLLOWING THE STARS

In the museum's planetarium, the astronomy center's 22-minute signature film, "Maunakea: Between Earth and Sky," traces the journey of explorers aboard double-hulled canoes who used the stars to plot their course across the sea.

The movie tells of the births of stars and shows footage of underwater volcanoes, and it's followed by a brief star show on the planetarium's dome.

The exhibit hall brings the vast skies to a comprehendible level.

A 3-D "Voyage through Space" video guides the viewer on a scientifically accurate trip through the solar system and the galaxy until you reach the edge of the universe.

Short movies tell of the stories of the origins of life, including both the Hawaiian creation chant and the Big Bang scientific theory that the universe began with a cosmic explosion 13 billion years ago.

You can look at yourself through an infrared camera, similar to those used in some of the telescopes on Mauna Kea. Another display shows how the mirrors of telescopes are used to see far beyond the boundaries of Earth's atmosphere.

In all, there are about 100 custom-designed exhibits in the center.

In one room, a plastic 6-foot-diameter globe hung from the ceiling is lit up with projection cameras using animated data from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

The globe shows views including the weather patterns that created Hurricane Katrina, the city lights that can be seen from space and depictions of Earth's varying climates.

Nearby, another room features information on the 'ukulele and the rebirth of the Hawaiian language.

"Astronomy feeds the mind, and Hawaiian culture feeds the heart," said Peter Giles, executive director for the center. "Astronomy and Hawaiian culture have always belonged together."

'TRUE FEELING' OF HAWAI'I

The $28 million 'Imiloa museum, whose name means "to seek and explore," had 45,000 visitors in its inaugural year since opening in February 2006, but it hasn't caught on with tourists yet. Located on the University of Hawai'i-Hilo campus, about 80 percent of its visitors are Hawai'i residents.

So it still qualifies as a rare find, offering something beyond the beaches, lu'au, golf courses or even nearby Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park that lure most Big Island tourists.

"If you really want to understand how the volcanic islands were formed, and what the stories and genealogical history of the people are, and the role of the great star-readers, then you have to visit 'Imiloa," said Gloria Chun-Hoo, the museum's marketing manager. "You will reach another level of depth and understanding that you won't find anywhere else."

'Imiloa, which is primarily funded by NASA, was designed to reflect the landscape of the Big Island. Its three titanium-clad cones represent Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Hualalai.

Outside, the largest native-plant garden in the state displays more than 50 species that existed before the state was overrun by foreign breeds.

"This is what Hawai'i used to look like. This is the true feeling of Hawai'i's ecosystem," said Hokuao Pellegrino, the cultural landscape curator. "We want people to feel the Hawaiian culture, not just as something they read about."