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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, October 18, 2006

TASTE
Ready ... or not

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By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Chef Ron Viloria of Tiki's Grill & Bar in Waikiki oils the grill to lubricate it and burn off residue. However, he cautions that you should never place food on a flaming grill because the burning creates off flavors.

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Tool of the trade
For a thicker cut of meat like this shoulder tenderloin, use an instant-read thermometer to assure the correct doneness. Lift the meat from the grill with tongs, or remove the cut from the oven, plunge the thermometer in the center of the meat at an angle until it’s about three-quarters of the way through the meat.

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All in the eyes
For fish, like this piece of 'ahi, it's all about observation: Note the change of color from red to pink to white along the cut sides of the fillet. This fish is best served rare or medium-rare, opaque at top and bottom but red to pink in the center. Chef Ron Viloria doesn't use a thermometer for fish, preferring the evidence of his eyes.

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Chef Ron Viloria says there are three tools involved in telling when food is done: your senses, timing and temperature. Each has its uses and its drawbacks.

Oh, and there's a fourth, the patience to pay attention to the clues your tools are giving you.

Professionals often rely on sight, sound, smell and touch alone. "Cooks who have been working on the line for years, they will go by touch. They know their grill, where the hots spots are and the cooler spots. They know the cuts of meat they're working with," said Viloria, newly appointed executive chef of Tiki's Grill & Bar at the ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Hotel. But most home cooks lack the experience to rely only on their senses unless they're very, very familiar with a dish.

Timing — "roast 15 minutes per pound" — is a problem because many factors can affect the length of time needed to cook things properly, Viloria said. Among these: the temperature of the food when you begin cooking, whether a cut of meat is bone-in, whether it's uniformly shaped or a combination of thick and thin, whether the oven is properly calibrated. Before grilling or roasting, he suggested, bring meat or fish to room temperature to speed up cooking time. Every few months, check your oven's temperature with a thermometer to be sure it's accurate, especially if you do a lot of baking, where a matter of a few minutes at the wrong temperature can mean a failure. Bone-in meat and whole cuts require extra care to keep from overdoing the more delicate parts; this may require protecting some parts with foil.

Temperature is the most accurate predictor of doneness and is useful with all the trickiest dishes, Viloria said. Anybody can tell when a casserole is done and pies can be gauged by the color of the crust. But meat, fish, breads and other baked goods, custards and puddings can look beautifully done when they're still raw —or, conversely, when they're overdone and dried out. Check a chef's jacket pocket and you'll see clipped there a standard tool of the trade that is only now making it into home kitchen drawers: the instant-read thermometer. These thermometers have been available — and reasonably priced — for years, but many cooks still think they don't need one.

This type of thermometer has a sensor in the tip that quickly reads the temperature of whatever it's touching. They are not left in the food, like old-fashioned styles used in roasting turkeys or other meat, but plunged in when you want a reading. Viloria said some old-school chefs don't like to use thermometers on meat because they don't want to pierce the skin and allow juices to run out. But he thinks the trade-off is worth it to avoid a dry, rubbery steak — or an unsafe one.

Viloria doesn't use a thermometer for fish; he relies on his eyes, checking the edges for changes in color and pressing with his finger to see if the fish has firmed up. And, although they wouldn't do this in a restaurant (for appearance sake), at home it's perfectly OK to insert the tip of a knife in the center of the fish and gently open a small seam to check for doneness.

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Taking its temperature

• Invest in an instant-read thermometer ($20 and up).
• Experts recommend a digital thermometer for faster reading.
• In thicker foods, insert thermometer at a 45-degree angle.
• Take care not to insert thermometer right through food.
• In poultry, take temperature in thickest part of the thigh.
• Lift steaks and chops with tongs and insert thermometer horizontally.
• Remove meats at a few degrees under desired doneness; meat will continue to cook.

Grilled meats
• Don't turn, poke or move meat more than is necessary.
• For criss-cross grill marks, grill 3-4 minutes; turn 90 degrees, grill 3-4 minutes; turn over and repeat.
• Know your grill; all grills have hot and cool spots.
• If meat is browning too fast, move to cooler spot.
• To speed cooking, cover meat on grill with metal pie tin.
• To prevent burning, apply sauces or glazes at the end of cooking.
• After grilling, place on rack-lined pan, cover with foil tent, rest 10 minutes.
• Remove steaks and chops at 5-10 degrees below desired doneness.
• Remove grilled roasts at 10-15 degrees below desired doneness.

Roast meats
• Bring meat to room temperature before roasting.
• Roast uncovered, on a rack, so meat doesn't stew in juices.
• Remove meat from oven and cover with foil tent at 10-15 degrees below desired doneness.
• Rest meat 10-20 minutes, covered with foil, before serving.

A matter of degrees

Red meat
• Seared: 80 degrees
• Rare: 100 degrees
• Medium-rare: 125 degrees
• Medium-well: 135-145 degrees
• Well done: 150-160 degrees

Poultry
• 160-175 degrees

Pork
• 160-180 degrees

Fish
• 'Ahi — best rare; white at edge, red or pink within
• Tender white fish (opah, 'opakapaka, etc.) — best medium; opaque but still tender to touch and moist
• Firm-fleshed white fish (swordfish, shark, marlin, etc.) — best medium; firm but still moist
• Salmon — best medium-rare to medium; color lightens from red to pink
• Flakiness is not desired; fish will be dry

SAFETY NOTE: The U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends 145 degrees minimum for all meats and fish; 160 degrees minimum for pork; 180 degrees minimum for poultry. Many cooks disagree about pork and poultry; preferring a range closer to 145-160 for pork, 160-170 for poultry.

Cakes, quick breads, muffins
• Springs back when lightly pressed
• Toothpick or skewer in center emerges clean
• Color golden to dark brown
• Top slightly dome-shaped

Pies
• Crust is well-browned
• Use a glass pie plate to see bottom better
• Fruit filling bubbling

Cookies
• Edges lightly browned, center set but not dry
• Cracks should appear moist
• Texture still soft

Yeast breads
• Temperature in center 190-210 degrees
• The more fat and eggs, the higher the doneness temperature
• Bread sounds hollow when thumped
• Crust golden-brown

Baked puddings and custards
• Top set but jiggles slightly
• Doesn't break when lightly pressed with finger
• Golden to browned in color

Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.

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