People often ask me to recommend a "no maintenance" grass. Unfortunately, there's no such thing — unless you want a lawn of artificial sports turf.

Closest to fitting the bill is centipede grass — a low-maintenance turf that tolerates neglect.

The slow-growing turfgrass with medium green leaf blades (it resembles El Toro zoysia but is a little wider) is well adapted to low-fertility conditions. It spreads by extending thick leafy runners (stolons) along the surface of the soil to form a dense mat of prostrate, low-growing stems and leaves. The individual leaf blades rarely grow more than four inches high.

Unlike most other warmseason grasses, centipede does not produce underground runners (rhizomes) and is therefore not as likely to invade other parts of the landscape. It has a medium wear tolerance, suitable for an average home lawn, but will wear down in heavy foot traffic areas.

Sometimes called "lazy man's grass" because it seems to thrive under minimal care, centipede grass is increasingly popular for home lawns with the right environment. It will not do well in heavy shade — St. Augustine and zoysia are better choices for these places. Centipede tolerates medium shade and often grows better under light shade than in full sun. Sandy acidic soils of low fertility are best for centipede, but it also performs well in medium-heavy clays. It is not tolerant of flooding or poorly drained soils. Don't grow centipede grass in exposed areas near the beach — it doesn't tolerate salt and salt spray well.

Several hybrids must be established by sprigs or sod, but common centipede grass (which can be seeded) is most commonly used in Hawai'i. The large seeds are slow to germinate, taking several weeks to emerge after sowing.

Centipede grass requires little fertilizer after it is established. It will form heavy thatch in response to excessive nitrogen fertilization, but otherwise thatch is usually not a problem. If needed, apply no more than one pound of slow-release nitrogen per 1,000 square feet each spring. A complete formulation high in potassium (the third number on the bag) is best. Applying more nitrogen will not darken the grass.

Occasionally the color may become yellowish in spots, or over the entire lawn, as a result of iron chlorosis. This is almost always caused by an alkaline soil where pH is above 6.5. The condition is more common in clay soils high in calcium and phosphorus or in sandy soils with high amounts of crushed coral. Iron chlorosis can be temporarily corrected by applying chelated iron or iron sulfate. Lowering the soil pH with applications of powdered sulfur will take longer to see results but is a more permanent remedy.

Because of the slow vertical growth of its leaf blades, centipede grass can be mowed less often than most other grasses. Use a rotary mower at a cutting height of 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Mow enough to remove no more than one third of the leaf blade at each mowing. This could be weekly in the summer and every 14 to 18 days in the winter. Avoid close mowing, which will scalp the turf, leave large brown spots, and reduce the density and encourage weeds.

With its shallow roots, centipede grass needs more water than other warm-season turf grasses. Water deeply on an as-needed basis; an automatic sprinkler system is helpful. Lighter, more frequent watering should be used only on very sandy soils during the hottest parts of the year. Avoid using brackish or gray water as a source for irrigation.

Well-managed centipede grass has few insect or disease problems in Hawai'i. Fungal diseases may occur in very wet, shady areas during the winter. Several general fungicides are available for treatment.

Weeds may become an occasional problem in some areas. Broadleaf weeds are controlled by a number of selective herbicides, for sedges such as nutgrass, kylinga and McCoy grass, use Image or Manage.

Centipede grass is easily injured by many of the selective herbicides that control grassy weeds. Do not use herbicides with active ingredients containing an arsonate, which are identified on the label and include the most common form called MSMA. Two very effective herbicides that control grassy weeds but do not injure centipede grass are Poast and Vantage. However, I have not seen either one in Hawai'i for more than a year. A semi-annual application of a pre-emergent herbicide, several of which are commonly sold in garden shops, will help keep out many weeds.

Jay Deputy is an education specialist in landscape horticulture and turf at the University of Hawai'i-Manoa, Department of Tropical Plant and Soil Sciences, and Hawai'i state administrator for the Certified Landscape Technician Program sponsored by the Landscape Industry Council of Hawai'i. Got a lawncare or turf question? Contact him at deputy@hawaii.edu.