WASHINGTON — Truth be told, the "Chicken Pesto Pasta" — star entry of the Army's new combat rations for troops in battle — was flavorful, although a bit mushy.

As in kitchens worldwide, the military's goal for pasta is tender but firm. But to make a combat ration that can survive on the shelf for up to eight years, it takes more than a gentle boil. Army pasta is precooked at 250 degrees for 1 1/2 hours while subjected to 15 pounds per square inch of pressure.

"It is very difficult to put a pasta product in an environment like that and have it come out al dente," said Gerald A. Darsch, the Department of Defense director of combat feeding.

The Army unveiled some of its new MREs — "meals, ready to eat" — at the Pentagon last week. Top on the list — or at least most highly rated in field tests — was the chicken pesto, prepared with sun-dried tomatoes and farfel pasta.

The pesto pasta will take the place of "Chicken With Cavatelli" and the already departed "Pasta With Alfredo Sauce" — widely considered the military's most disgusting meal offerings.

The new dishes appeal to spicier tastes, a reflection of the changing preferences of young grunts, Darsch said. They also are a nod to the troops' habit of frequently dumping plenty of hot sauce on their MREs.

"We are all used to carrying a bottle of hot sauce around," said Col. John Biggs, who was among those sampling the offerings.

Biggs and Lt. Col. Vincent Whitehurst gave the extra spice a thumbs-up. "It adds more flavor," Whitehurst said, "or it conceals the preservatives."

Most MREs come with their own container of hot sauce. Of the 24 MREs currently available, 15 come with Tabasco sauce, while the others have red pepper flakes, a "seasoning blend" or jalapeno ketchup.

It takes two years for new MRE entrees to go into circulation among troops in the field. That's a dramatic improvement, Darsch said; it used to take four years.

Soldiers and Marines won't be eating the Chicken Pesto until 2008.

MREs date to 1983, when they replaced the individual combat meal — the C-ration, a canned staple of World War II and the Korean and Vietnam wars.

"I am old enough to remember the ones that came in a can," said Col. Jess Soto, a 59-year-old Vietnam veteran who works in the Pentagon. "You really had to acquire a taste for them."

Soto said he liked the new MRE entrees, but he noted he wasn't eating them in the right environment to truly enjoy their charm.

"They taste better if you haven't eaten for a few days," he said, "and you are under extreme stress."