I used to take the toaster for granted. After all, of all the kitchen appliances you could want, a toaster doesn't usually top the list.

A great microwave, electric mixer, coffee maker, blender, juice maker, even a George Foreman grill comes to mind before a toaster. But not anymore.

I had a wonderful Sunbeam, two-slice toaster in black for years. About 20 years, more or less. I say had because several months ago, the coils finally went kaput and the thing just wasn't worth toast anymore.

I hated admitting that I needed a new one. After all, the old one had seen me through three moves — from Michigan to Washington, D.C. to Los Angeles — and countless meals. You don't eat toast, after all, just for breakfast.

Sure, I love putting it under poached eggs, or using it to scoop up the last of the scrambled eggs on the plate. But it also works great when you want a tuna melt, and are too lazy to grill it on the stove. You just toast the bread, spread the tuna, put the cheese on top, and pop it into the microwave for a minute.

Then, there are those times when your tummy can't tolerate anything but dry toast and liquids. Where would we be without a toaster?

You can also tell a lot about a relationship from the way a guy toasts his bread. If he's making breakfast, and it's a two-slice machine, does he give you the first warm piece out of the toaster? Does he put the first two pieces on your plate, letting them get cold, while he makes a second round for himself?

Then, there's the cleanliness test. Does he remember to wipe the crumbs off the kitchen counter? Does he even see the crumbs on the counter?

Ah, the stories my toaster could tell ...

I have to admit, it was with some trepidation that I went to the store to see what kind of toaster would end up replacing my Sunbeam. After looking at every sample on the shelf, I chose a bright red Cuisinart, two-slice model to take home. It had all the fancy settings, extra wide slots for bagels, even a defrost mode.

Lasted seven months. The inner panels stopped heating in sync with the outer panels, so toast came out singed on one side, soft on the other.

Next, I decided to try a DeLonghi toaster oven. For just a few dollars more, I could have a toaster, oven, broiler and food warmer all in one square box. Of course, I'd have to clear twice the counter space to accommodate it.

Lasted one day. You know that little dingy noise that toasters make when the bread is done? This toaster oven had a buzz so loud, my neighbors next door thought the smoke alarm had gone off.

You would think that since there are so many different kinds of toasters on the market, it would be easy to find one — just one — that I'd like. But after perusing countless store shelves, I gave up and did what any sane woman would do. I went online.

I found a great little ode to toasters: Check out The Toaster Museum Foundation at www.toaster.org. Then I ordered the latest Sunbeam, two-slice toaster, in black.

Please let this be the one.

Wanda Adams is away. Her Food for Thought column will resume when she returns.