As the most southerly wine-growing region of the world, New Zealand grapes are the first to greet the new day. I like that image. New Zealand vineyards offer special opportunities for distinctive wines because of the cool prevailing westerlies, latitudes of 35-44 degrees south, the effects of mountains upon rainfall and diverse soil types from a violent geologic past. These vineyards remained almost unknown to the world's wine-drinking public until the mid-1980s. Around that time, sauvignon blanc, with its exotic citrus, tropical fruit, herby intense and vibrant flavors, put wine lovers in America and Britain on notice that things were happening in New Zealand.

In 1769, Capt. James Cook's exploration led to colonization. No wine culture developed because of the temperance movement and the lack of wine-savvy colonists. Until after World War II, wine could not be sold by the bottle in wine shops. Wine wasn't even allowed to be sold in restaurants until the 1960s and even then a 10 p.m. "wine curfew" was still in place. Until the 1980s, many French-American hybrids were commonly planted and diluted with water to stretch the wines. Luckily, in the 1990s, new laws and attitudes, more capital and a new generation of trained and talented winemakers and grape growers combined to produce a new, fine wine culture.

New Zealand is still a white-wine producer, mostly sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Pinot noir, the most widely planted red varietal, is the standard bearer for premium table wine (although the sparkling wines chardonnay and pinot noir blends are noteworthy). Huge increases in pinot noir plantings (23 percent in 2003) show the effort in trying to make great wines from this tricky varietal in new areas.

These wines can never be cheap, but high quality, vibrant flavors and intense fruit character can be enjoyed from New Zealand pinot noirs. In the North Island, the cooler areas of Martinborough and high areas of Hawkes Bay show promise. In the South Island, central Otago has the best reputation (surrounded by mountains far from the ocean continental climate — the wines have richness, intense fruit, good acidity). Also showing promise are Nelson in the northwest (sunny clay soils, more structured style), Marlborough (drier than Nelson, better drained stonier soils producing fruity styles), and farther south in Wanaka, Canterbury and Waitaki Valley in North Otago.

Most New Zealand pinot noirs display bright fruit and floral aromas, hopefully subdued oak, and pure, direct flavors. Most should be consumed young.

I have a few food suggestions for these locally available pinot noirs: The Crossings is more firm than the other selections and would go well with lamb chops; the Spy Valley is the biggest and most complex and would pair well with prime rib; and Cloudy Bay has less tannin and would be great with roast chicken and veal.

Take a chance on an unfamiliar New Zealand wine and let me know what you think. They are definitely on their way up.