A 500-year-old traditional Okinawan liquor just might be giving Grey Goose a run for its money with Honolulu's young club crowd. Randy Kuba of Awamori Spirits is counting on it.

Kuba fell in love with awamori 13 years ago during frequent visits to Okinawa for both work and pleasure with his Okinawan-born wife, Frances. What's so attractive about awamori? Its versatility, crystal-clear color and lack of additives (promising no nasty hangovers).

At first Kuba packed a few bottles to give to friends, and before long he was bringing it back by the case.

Already in the import-export business, Kuba began distributing awamori to Honolulu's lively izakaya-style restaurants such as Momomo, Tokkuri Tei and Okonomi Cuisine Kai, but before long the spirit found its way into more mainstream places, such as Panya Bistro at Ala Moana, Chai's Island Bistro, BluWater Grill and The O Lounge.

Awamori's appeal is partly because, like similar clear alcoholic beverages such as vodka, tequila and light rum, it mixes well into those pretty cocktails so popular with women and younger imbibers. Then there's its proclaimed "purity," from a natural production and aging process, cutting down on next-morning throbbing headaches.

"Of course it depends what you mix with it," says Sheryl Estrada of Panya Bistro. Estrada says that in November the restaurant had an Awamori Night that was a big success. Their lychee-flavored awamori cocktail made with squeezed lychee juice is a good seller. "It's popular with the younger crowd and a lot of ladies in their mid-40s who come in after work," says Estrada.

Light, citrusy awamori, like Japanese sake, is made from rice. But instead of being brewed, as sake is, the liquor is distilled much the same way as single malt scotch.

Because of Okinawa's sub-tropical climate, says Kuba, a brewed product would have to be chilled and would not last. Awamori, because of the distillation, can be kept indefinitely and actually improves with age.

The process of making distilled spirits began in ancient Greece and traveled to Asia with Arab traders along the Silk Road during the 13th and 14th centuries. By the 15th century, the Ryukyu Islands, an independent kingdom, were doing a robust trade with mainland Asia. The process was introduced through Thailand using a premium Thai long-grain indica rice. To that was added black koji, or yeast, indigenous to Okinawa. It is made with these same ingredients to this day.

The distilling and aging took place in a series of kame, or earthenware pots. According to Kuba, because the pots were made from the different regional clays, they took on the particular characteristics of the various regions. Like many Scottish whiskies, they each had its own distinct flavor. The kame were as important to Okinawan distillers as proper wine barrels are to winemakers.

Although awamori is still served in small earthenware pots called kara kara and drunk from cups called choko in Okinawa, U.S. laws require alcohol to be imported in clear glass bottles.

Kuba visited Okinawan distillers and chose 11 of them from a total of 47 now producing the liquor. He markets it in the United States under the brands CraZCrane and Dancing Sea.

CraZCrane comes in three strengths — silver, gold and platinum — each with ascending amounts (25 percent to 43 percent) of alcohol content. This brand is lighter, similar to vodkas and light rums, and is aimed at the younger clientele who like mixed drinks. It is aged just one to three years. For the ever-popular martini, Kuba recommends using CraZCrane Gold.

Dancing Sea, on the other hand, is targeted toward the older connoisseur of liquor. It's aged for three to 10 years and produced in a more handcrafted process. This brand (which comes in four strengths), says Kuba, should be consumed over ice with a splash of water to truly appreciate its flavor.

Awamori retails in 750 ml bottles from $21 to $71 at Tamura's Fine Wine & Spirits, HASR Wine Co., Daiei stores, Marukai Wholesale Mart, Star Markets, Palama Super Market and other stores around the Islands.

It's cocktail time. Try these simple drink recipes at home:

AWAMORI AND TONIC

1 ounce awamori

Tonic water to taste

A squeeze of fresh lime

Mix in a tall glass with lots of ice and stir. Serves 1.

ENLIGHTENMENT

1 ounce awamori

1 ounce Midori melon liqueur

2 to 3 lime wedges, squeezed

Place all ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake 3 or 4 times. Strain into a chilled martini glass.

KARMA

1 ounce awamori

1/3 ounce triple sec

1 ounce cranberry juice

2 to 3 lime wedges, squeezed

Place all ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice, shake 3 or 4 times. Strain into a chilled martini glass.

MANTRA

2 ounces awamori

Splash of water

A squeeze of fresh lime

Pour awamori over ice in a "rock glass" tumbler. Add a splash of water and a squeeze of fresh lime.

CHERRY BLOSSOM GELATIN SHOTS

1 box cherry-flavored gelatin

2/3 cup awamori

1/3 cup Tuaca

Follow the directions on the gelatin box, substituting the awamori and Tuaca for 1 cup water. Place in a shallow pan and refrigerate until jelled. Cut into bite-sizes and serve. You can place each piece into small paper cups, available at party supply stores.