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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, December 14, 2005

TASTE
Book simplifies chefs' recipes for home cooks

 •  Side dishes with pizzazz

Associated Press

Seared swordfish with stewed Sicilian-style broccoli rabe is easy and takes only about 30 minutes to prepare.

TINA RUPP | Associated Press

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The title of Melissa Clark's new cookbook, "Chef Interrupted," casts a new benevolent aura on its second word. Here is Clark kindly intervening on behalf of home cooks everywhere, bringing creations of top professionals within the reach of the less adept.

Her book's cover promises "delicious chefs' recipes that you can actually make at home."

"As a food writer ... a former caterer and an avid restaurant-goer," she says, "I know firsthand how marvelous chefs' recipes can be.

"But also I know that many are an awful pain in the neck."

Translating — essentially interrupting recipes — is something she has often done and now she carries it further by finding some of the best dishes of stellar chefs across the country, then "nipping and tucking at the overly complicated parts, until all that remains is the brilliant essence of a dish, without all the hassle."

Here's an example.

Based on a dish created by David Pasternack, of New York City's restaurant Esca, the recipe focuses on swordfish, with its meaty flavor heightened only by a garlicky broccoli rabe. Swordfish is flavorful and firm, ideal for high-heat cooking methods like grilling and searing. For this recipe, you could substitute 1-inch-thick tuna or mahi steaks.

SEARED SWORDFISH WITH STEWED SICILIAN-STYLE BROCCOLI RABE

  • 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 6 large garlic cloves, peeled and lightly smashed with the back of a knife
  • 2 bunches of broccoli rabe or broccolini (about 2 pounds), leaves removed; thicker stems peeled, cut into 1-inch lengths and kept separate
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine
  • 1/3cup pitted black olives, such as Kalamata
  • Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon
  • 4 swordfish steaks (8 ounces each, 1 inch thick)

    In a large skillet over medium heat, warm 1 tablespoon oil. Add the garlic along with freshly ground salt and pepper to taste. Cook until fragrant, about 1 1/2 minutes. Add the thicker broccoli stems and wine, cover, cook until half-tender, 5 to 6 minutes.

    Add the rest of the broccoli rabe and cook, uncovered, for 6 more minutes, until very tender. Uncover the pan, add the olives, and cook for a few more minutes to evaporate the remaining liquid. Stir in the lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with another tablespoon of olive oil and set aside to keep warm, or heat gently just before serving.

    Heat large skillet over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Season swordfish with salt and pepper. Drizzle each with 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil per side (4 tablespoons total). Place the fish in the hot skillet and cook 4 to 6 minutes on each side. Serve immediately, with the broccoli rabe.

    Makes 4 servings.

    Per serving (1 steak, pinch of salt not included): 580 calories, 33 g total fat, 6 g saturated fat, 90 mg cholesterol, 430 mg sodium, 17 g carbohydrate, 7 g fiber, 5 g sugar, 52 g protein