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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, December 11, 2005

Tourism stirring Wai'anae Coast

By Lynda Arakawa
Advertiser Staff Writer

The once-faltering Makaha Resort & Golf Club is flourishing with more visitors, partly because of Internet travel referrals and Waikiki overflow.

JEFF WIDENER | The Honolulu Advertiser

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Makaha Resort housekeeper and Waiçanae resident Precious Salas, 18, says it’s refreshing to hear visitors remark how enjoyable the coast is.

JEFF WIDENER | The Honolulu Advertiser

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It's not highlighted in most tourist brochures. The only road in leads to a dead end. If a visitor hears about it at all, it's most likely in the form of a warning.

O'ahu's Wai'anae Coast has never been a tourist magnet, but this year — with record numbers of visitors fanning out to every corner of the Islands — even Wai'anae is getting a boost.

"There are literally busloads of tourists coming," said William Aila, harbormaster at Wai'anae.

Those searching for the old Hawai'i or to escape the crowds of Waikiki are turning to the Wai'anae Coast. The result can be measured by the ringing of cash registers at small businesses and the expansion plans of the area's few resorts.

More visitors mean more jobs in a community long beset by high unemployment and mind-numbing commutes. Still, the tourists bring more traffic, more congestion at the beaches and more boats on the water.

Whether you favor increasing tourism seems to depend on whether you're profiting or just being forced to share your space.

For Jerrick Amas, more jobs in the area means no more commuting from Makaha to Waikiki.

"I've added three hours back to my life" each day, said Amas, a salesman at Marriott's Ko Olina Beach Club. "I'm so fortunate that I don't have to drive all the way to Waikiki to work at a good, quality job."

With resorts in and around the Wai'anae Coast expanding, tourism jobs are on the rise:

  • Makaha Resort & Golf Club added 50 employees this year.

  • The Ko Olina Beach Club hired more than 60 in the last few months.

  • JW Marriott Ihilani Resort and Spa expanded by about 200 full-time or part-time positions in the last couple of years.

    That's a welcome development for the Wai'anae Coast, where unemployment rates in October averaged about 6.8 percent, compared with O'ahu's 2.7 percent.

    Small businesses and others have noticed the change, too. More visitors have been stopping by the Treasure Box charity thrift store in Makaha.

    "It's blowing our minds away," said Tammy Withers, executive director of the nonprofit organization that runs the shop. "We came here almost three years ago, and every year it has increased on this side of the island for us. They don't want to go Waikiki. They don't want the hustle and bustle, the crowds."

    COMMUNITY ABUZZ

    State officials said there are no statistics or studies that specifically track visitors to the Wai'anae Coast, but several merchants and employees last week said they are seeing an increase.

    Reggie Robinson, who operates his Makaha Shave Ice stand at the Makaha Marketplace, said he's making more money, thanks in part to an increase in tourists. When he opened his business three years ago, 80 percent of his customers were local. Now tourists make up about half his business, he said.

    "I would say I'm benefiting from (tourism) because I'm a small-business owner and I have something to offer the visitor when they come out here," Robinson said. "If you don't have nothing to offer them, I don't know if you benefit from them. ... More people should gear their business toward tourism, and you might be a little more successful out here."

    For Candice Keouli, a waitress at Hannara Restaurant, an increase in visitors has meant more tips. She said she started to notice more visitors coming in last year.

    "You see a lot of people from all over — from Canada, Japan, all over the Mainland," she said.

    The draw seems to be the lack of development.

    "We're pretty much a slow-paced area, so the tourists, they love it out here," said Christine Oroc of Ma'ili, who rents out ocean recreation and fishing equipment, and sells souvenirs and clothing at Paradise Isle Kama'aina & Visitor Center in Makaha. "They say they'd rather be out here than Waikiki, only because it's a lot less crowded. They love the beaches out here."

    Some visitors have stayed in Makaha during tourism's peak season because there wasn't enough room in Waikiki hotels. Some are bused in for dolphin-watching tours off the coast or stop by area businesses when they realize they can't drive to the North Shore via Ka'ena Point.

    A new TV series filmed on the Wai'anae Coast called "Beyond the Break" (formerly "Boarding School"), about a group of young women striving to become professional surfers, may draw more attention to the area. The show, which also shoots at the Makaha Resort, is scheduled to debut in March on The N, a new MTV nighttime teen channel.

    Development at the Ko Olina Resort & Marina, just outside what is traditionally considered the Wai'anae Coast, brings tourists closer to the west side of the island and provides hundreds of jobs for area residents.

    Marriott's Ko Olina Beach Club, which last week opened half of its new high-rise time-share building, hired more than 60 workers in the last couple of months, and plans to hire another 50 when it opens the second half next June, said general manager Chad Jensen. About 66 percent of the Club's 339 employees live on the west side, he said.

    Most employees at the JW Marriott Ihilani Resort and Spa also live in the Leeward O'ahu area, said general manager Chris Tatum. The resort also provides internships to Leeward Coast high school students.

    STRAIN ON RESOURCES

    To be sure, most jobs for residents are still outside the Wai'anae Coast, according to Verna Landford-Bright, employment consultant at O'ahu Work Links in Wai'anae.

    The area lacks the cute shops and trendy eateries of most tourist spots. The few restaurants and stores are scattered among aging buildings along Farrington Highway, the main thoroughfare. Homeless camps occupy some of the beaches and crime continues to be a problem.

    "It's still a struggle out in the Wai'anae area; let's not make any bones about it," said Cynthia Rezentes, chairwoman of the Wai'anae Coast Neighborhood Board. "When you put a mix of tourism in there, it may help the area by cleaning the area up, and in another way it may just exacerbate some of our problems."

    Not everyone wants to see more visitors on the Wai'anae Coast.

    "There's good and bad with the increase," said harbormaster Aila, speaking as a Wai'anae resident. "The good is the revenue that they bring, and the jobs that are created from that revenue. Bad is the additional congestion on the road and the use of our limited resources."

    Aila also said that while some tourists are respectful of Hawaiian cultural sites, others not familiar with them climb on and damage heiau. There also are user conflicts between dolphin tours and fishermen, he said.

    INVOLVING RESIDENTS

    Some residents complain about unlicensed vacation rentals in Makaha, arguing that the units take away housing for locals and change the character of the area.

    The Wai'anae Coast Coalition is planning a meeting, tentatively set for February, to discuss community-based tourism, which aims to involve residents in creating visitor-related economic opportunities that benefit the community and preserve its culture. The idea is to design tourism plans based first on what the community wants rather than the visitor, said coalition executive director Joseph Lapilio.

    "A community's like your house," Lapilio said. "There are only so many people that can come into your house before you strain your own resources. It's the same with Wai'anae. It's the same with every other community. I really don't want to see in Wai'anae what you see elsewhere in Hawai'i, where they're completely overwhelmed."

    For Precious Salas, 18, a Makaha Resort housekeeper and Wai'anae resident, the visitors offer a fresh view of her home.

    "It's funny how you hear they really like this side of the island," Salas said. "You never hear (local) people say, 'Oh, I love it in Wai'anae.' You know, because it's Wai'anae. And then you talk to the (tourists) and they always say they love it down here, it's beautiful, it never rains and the beaches are really pretty."

    Neil and Hanne Syme of Vancouver, who have visited Hawai'i about 15 times, rented a time-share unit at the Hawaiian Princess in Makaha to get away from the crowds in Waikiki.

    "We've stayed in Waikiki a lot of times and it's too busy," Neil said. "We went from Waikiki to Maui. And now Maui's too busy. And then we found this spot."

    The only trouble is "there are no restaurants," he said.

    Reach Lynda Arakawa at larakawa@honoluluadvertiser.com.