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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, May 28, 2008

FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Eat fresh, diverse as a 'locavore'

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Columnist

 •  Subtle Tea

At the third annual Hawaii Book and Music Festival earlier this month, there was a whole tent reserved for food and cookbooks — you should come next year! — and there was much to learn.

Chef Russell Siu of 3660 on the Rise showed how to make seared 'ahi crusted with odd little Japanese crackers and drizzled with butter sauce. Speakers discussed Hawai'i's food history, our unique foodways, how to eat more healthily and how to become a "locavore."

That last term was used by our former food editor, Joan Namkoong, who, after leaving The Advertiser, spearheaded the effort to create true Island farmers markets here — those that sell only local food, flowers and crafts.

A "locavore" is defined as someone who tries to eat only those foods grown within 100 miles of their home — not completely practical here in Hawai'i what with the ocean between islands and the fact that we grow so few staples. But you can, with some effort, eat mostly Hawai'i-grown produce.

Namkoong offered some interesting facts in her talk:

  • What's likely to be local in the grocery store? Ginger, watercress, Chinese cabbage, mustard cabbage, cucumbers, sweet potatoes, head cabbage, tomatoes and sweet corn. Also, some snap beans, eggplant, bittermelon, parsley, pumpkins and about half of the lettuces. If you aren't sure, she urged her listeners, "ask, ask, ask — where does that come from?" Only 35 percent of our vegetable supply comes from Island farmers.

  • Island eggs are growing scarce; there are but four egg farms left. Only two large-scale dairies. No large-scale chicken farms. Little local beef (mostly range-fed and hard to find). Some local pork.

  • Don't be fooled by Island-sounding names. Mainland food, including eggs, milk, chicken and pork, may be repackaged here and branded with such names. The way to tell with eggs: Mainland eggs are stamped right on the shell with a USDA stamp. Local eggs have the "Island Fresh" label on packaging.

  • A new federal farm bill will require country of origin labeling on foods (already in effect for seafood); but that doesn't tell you exactly where in the country.

  • Mainland fresh food arrives here at least a week after harvest. And it may or may not have been shipped in refrigerated containers; milk often comes in insulated, but not refrigerated, containers, she said, which explains why it often goes bad more quickly than you think it should.

    Namkoong said shopping in farmers markets and cooking rather than eating out has many advantages: good health (because you control ingredients used), diversity and seasonality (the food is interesting and "just tastes better"), the fun of interacting with growers and their families. Good advice.

    Send recipes and requests to: Wanda A. Adams, Food Editor, The Advertiser, P.O. Box 3110, Honolulu, HI 96802; wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com; or fax 525-8055.

    Send recipes and queries to Wanda A. Adams, Food Editor, Honolulu Advertiser, P.O. Box 3110, Honolulu, HI 96802. Fax: 525-8055. E-mail: wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.

    For more information about our 150th anniversary cookbook, call 535-8189 (message phone; your call will be returned). You can order the cookbook online.