As the warmest Hawaiian summer months approach us, pairing wine with food may not be the paramount issue for the discerning connoisseur. Far more important is the oftenignored concept of pairing wine with the weather.

The idea of pairing beverages with temperature and climate is not a foreign one for most Americans. On cold, snowy days the overwhelming majority of us immediately desire a hot cup of cocoa. Conversely, the hot days of summer have everyone reaching for the pitcher of iced lemonade. Unfortunately, this popular concept rarely makes it into the realm of wine, beer and spirits. As the wine culture of Hawai'i continues to become more sophisticated, the time may have come to add a new dimension to our wine selection process.

When considering pairing wine with the weather, it must be insisted at the outset that there are no absolutes. Akin to how the "white wine with fish, red wine with meat" axiom has fallen to the wayside, wine and weather guidelines can certainly be broken successfully. Utilizing that as a disclaimer, there are some wines that do not seem to be as ideal for summertime as others.

First and foremost, wines that have a high alcohol content (above 13.5 percent) are the bane of warm weather. Similar to how high-octane wines increase spiciness in food, a hot, sunny day will be multiplied tenfold with a 16 percent boozer. That means some of our favorite selections should most likely be cellared throughout the season. Wines like red zinfandel, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon are far better off in front of a fireplace on a wintery day, or at least on a 74-degree Hawaiian evening with the trade winds blowing. Another important wine characteristic to watch out for is sweetness. Wines that contain a sizable portion of residual sugar might taste great going down, but will make you pay the price a couple hours later. Two or three glasses of a sweet-style riesling and you will be the first one to leave the sandbar, destined for a long nap and a few aspirin. Fear not riesling lovers, simply search for the world 'Kabinett' on the label, and you can be fairly certain of a drier version.

The single most important wine for the months of June, July and August is without question rose. Not to be confused with the infamous sweet white zinfandels of California, dry roses are most often found in the south of France and northern Italy. Regions along the Mediterranean Sea such as Provence, LanguedocRoussillon and the Rhone Valley specialize in producing the world's best examples of dry rose. These wines are often blends of grapes like grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault, and taste of refreshing summer strawberry and bright cherry fruit. They are inexpensive as well, with most retailing for well under $20. Two excellent examples are the Chateau d'Aqueria, Tavel, Rhone Valley, France, 2006 ($17) and Alois Lageder, Alto-Adige, Italy, 2005 ($16). With great acidity and medium body, roses are perfect matches for many foods as well, making them one of the most underrated wines year round.

Northern Italy makes an even greater contribution to wine and weather pairing with its white wines and sparklers. It seems that no other region pairs more perfectly with the beach than wines of the Tre-Venezie. Light-bodied and full of citrus flavors, wines like soave, pinot grigio and tocai have all the effect of lemonade for grown-ups on a hot summer afternoon. Important examples are Inama Soave Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2005 ($18) and Pighin "Collio" Pinot Grigio, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, Italy, 2004 ($19). And don't forget the prosecco! A semi-sparkling wine made from the grape of the same name, prosecco is a must for the summer party host. Tasting of green apples and creamy lemon-lime, prosecco is often the best deal in town, costing less than $10. The low alcohol content (10.5 percent) means you can drink the stuff all night long, and the frizzante (that "dance" of bubbles on the tongue) sparkles, creating a festive mood for everyone.

For those individuals predisposed to drinking a cold beer on their hot summer afternoon, many selections pair well with a ninety-degree scorcher. Of course, you can never go wrong with the traditional, albeit simple, choices of Corona and Miller Lite. These beers will be light on your palate as well as light on your pocket book. If you are looking for a more sophisticated brew for the weather, hefeweizens are a great start. These wheat beers have bold banana and bubblegum flavors that taste like the tropics. Additionally, if you have yet to try Lindemans Lambic Framboise, you are missing out a raspberry thrill-ride that will change your life.

Whether it is a bottle of cold beer or a glass of wine, summertime is an excellent opportunity to try new things. Keep it on the light and refreshing side and you should be able to socialize well after the sun goes down. The perfect wine and weather pairing is out there, and it is such a tough job finding it (ha!).

Jason "Cass" Castle is a certified specialist of wine and certified sommelier. He is the beverage manager/sommelier for Merriman's Kapalua, a new Maui restaurant. Reach him at jason@merrimanshawaii.com.