Hawaii beach dwellers embrace holidays
By Will Hoover
Advertiser Wai'anae Coast Writer
WAI'ANAE — Christmas has had a tough time gaining a foothold in the rocks and sand at Sewers Beach, where the living's not easy and the existence is raw.
The nickname itself, "Sewers" — a reference to the waste treatment plant across the highway — does nothing to evoke holiday cheer. Officially it's Lualualei Beach Park No. 1, but no one, including the homeless tent population that occupies the narrow landscape between Farrington Highway and the ocean, ever calls it that.
Here, visions of sugarplums are at best a distant notion. There's no such thing as "children nestled all snug in their beds."
And yet, even in this hardscrabble environment, a sense of Christmas has managed to take root — this year more so than ever.
"It took awhile," said Annie Pau, 56, who has lived at Sewers for five years with her husband, John, 61.
In the past, Christmas Eve was just another day, another moment in the struggle for survival on the beach, according to Pau.
But as time passed and more people moved onto the beach, a sense of togetherness, of "family," seemed to seep into the atmosphere in late December each year. There might be a jovial get-together at the camp or a cookout.
Last year one group actually came out of their tents and sang carols.
But something special is happening this year, thanks to Shina Gomes' Christmas display — an evolving, makeshift assortment of tinsel, lights and ornamentation that took form in front of Gomes' tent in the middle of the encampment.
"This was the first time we really and truly had someone here with the holiday spirit," said Pau. "And it was Shina."
Gomes, 49, actually started the display in September. "People would drive by and shout, 'Hey, it's not even Halloween — and don't forget about Thanksgiving.' And I'd just smile and keep building."
Initially, Gomes was building to inject a little joy into the surroundings, to add fun to the mix. But on a deeper level the project became a beacon of positive expectations — a hope magnet, a reminder that nothing good comes from giving up, Gomes said.
And when high winds and torrential rains tore through the beach on Dec. 5 and blew the display to pieces, Gomes did not give up, but instead went back to work.
Others from the camp got involved, donating a light bulb here, an ornament there. Kimberly Cruz, who became homeless after her husband died a year ago, donated the generator that lights the display at night.
Piece by piece, tinsel by tinsel, light by light, the display was erected anew.
"I love Christmas," said Gomes. "I want everyone to think about Christmas. Hey, there is a Santa — it's 'Miracle on 34th Street.' All you have to do is believe. This display tells us we all need a wish — Sewers needs a wish."
Cruz's adopted daughter Tae-lor, age 8 — one of a half-dozen youngsters who live at the beach — is a believer. She will hang her stocking with care and wish for a pair of Heelys skate shoes.
Not far away, Becky Soares wove the angel that sits atop the Christmas tree she has placed inside her tent. Soares said she will weave a Christmas stocking of lauhala leaf for the grandson who lives with her, Chevy, age 2.
Santa Claus is coming to Sewers. Wishes have been made. Hope is alive. Gomes' display has brightened the way.
"That display seems to make us feel that we are somebody," said Annie Pau.
"People come by, stop and take pictures. And all of a sudden, we're not sewer rats. We're regular people.
"We have the Christmas spirit in here."
Reach Will Hoover at whoover@honoluluadvertiser.com.
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