HANOI, Vietnam — As soon as you walk into the street from your villa, the streets outside your door remind you that Hanoi is one large, colorful bazaar. Hanoi's Old Quarter is one of the city's most unusual and lively places. Although there are two official marketplaces here, the entire area is in fact one large market.

In the quarter, you can browse for giant red candlesticks, silk, snake wine, woven mats, coffee, musical instruments, "ghost money" or lacquerware — or just have a bowl of phô noodle soup.

Just navigating the maze of streets and alleys is an adventure. Though it is easy to get lost in the Old Quarter, simply climb into a rickshaw or "cyclo" and let the driver do the work.

Avenues of interest to visitors are Hang Thiec Street, which carries metal boxes of all sizes and descriptions. Hang Ma Street is devoted to "ghost money" — fake currency burned at Buddhist ceremonies, including fake $5,000 bills! Herbalists will whip up a concoction for whatever ails you on Lan Ong Street, including large bottles of snake wine. Hang Chieu Street specializes in straw mats and rope. Buddhas and Buddhist altars are displayed on Hang Quat Street.

Ready for a break? Visit Hang Hanh Street, which is coffee street — lively cafes and restaurants line the block. Quieter and less crowded, the neighborhood surrounding Nha Tho Street is the part of the Old Quarter that runs alongside Hoan Kiem lake. Nha Tho Street is lined with cafes, bakeries, French restaurants and antiques stores. St. Joseph Cathedral looms at the end of the block, creating the impression of a provincial French town.

ON THE WATER

Rousing games of badminton, smooching and strolling couples and early morning tai-chi sessions are all part of the scene at Hoan Kiem Lake. Here in the heart of the city, the lake and surrounding park serve as a kind of nerve center for Hanoi. At the southern part of the Old Quarter, the park is a convenient place to rest from all the marketplace action. Tortoise Tower, on a tiny island in the middle of the lake, serves as the emblem for Hanoi while at the northern end of the lake, on another small island, Ngoc Son Temple is reached by walking across a beautiful red wooden bridge. Surrounded by water, the temple is a quiet retreat in the center of Hanoi — a perfect resting place after browsing the Old Quarter.

WATER PUPPET THEATER

Dragons, smoke, drums and xylophones will transport you into the rice paddies without ever leaving Hanoi. Vietnamese water puppet shows are an ancient art dating back at least 1,000 years.

Originally, performances were staged on ponds, lakes or watery fields for the amusement of local rice farmers. Instead of a stage, there is a pool of water, which enhances the drama by allowing the puppets to appear and disappear. The performance consists of short vignettes, each depicting different legends or scenes from village life such as a fisherman trying to catch a large fish, with great splashes of water and realistic fish movements plus fire-breathing dragons with fireworks. Puppets, carved from water-resistant fig wood, are dragons, phoenixes, unicorns and models of the rice farmers themselves. The accompanying orchestra's gongs, wooden flutes and bamboo xylophones not only enhance the drama but are a part of the scene.

WHAT TO EAT

Fresh, hot, fragrant baguettes are on almost every street corner for a quick but satisfying breakfast. Huge pots of phô (aromatic beef noodle soup) can be had for 75 cents. The streets of the Old Quarter resemble an outdoor buffet more than actual roadways.

Good, strong coffee is another item readily available everywhere in Hanoi. Tiny coffee filters are placed on your cup and you wait till all the water drips through. Ask for more hot water to pour through the filter, as the Vietnamese like it teeth-curlingly strong.

Cha ca, or braised fish, is a Hanoi specialty that should be on everyone's list of things to taste. Try it at the mecca of Cha ca, the Cha Ca La Vong Restaurant on, you guessed it, Cha Ca Street. Many of these restaurants and cafes are set up in old villas and antique houses. Brothers Cafe, for example, is set in the courtyard of a restored 250-year-old temple.

PAGODAS, TEMPLES AND LAKE

Founded in 1070, the Temple of Literature is a well-preserved architectural masterpiece, honoring scholars and those of literary accomplishment. The Temple of Literature is made up of separate courtyards, each traditionally reserved for royalty, mandarins, military and administrators. Large stone tortoises and tablets are placed along the sides of the temple to commemorate those who received doctorates back when the place was still a university.

The One Pillar Pagoda is built of wood on a single stone pillar surrounded by a lotus pond. In fact, the pagoda was built to resemble a lotus.

Tay Ho Lake, northwest of the Old Quarter, is the largest lake in Hanoi and a popular place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Two large pagodas grace its shores. Tran Quoc Pagoda is among the oldest in Vietnam, though preserved and maintained so well that it looks quite new. Also at this lake is Tay Ho Pagoda, the most popular pagoda in Hanoi. The walk in from the entrance is along a lane of stalls selling food and temple offerings. The temples and pagodas are restful places, worth a visit just to observe Vietnamese life.